Need some serious help from a pro
#1
Need some serious help from a pro
Make: 1993 Mazda Mx3 RS
Alternator: 60 amp
Deck: Pioneer DEH-2000MP
Wiring: Scoshe amp kit
Amp: Sony Xplod XM-1002HX
Subs: Jensen BP210
Speakers: Pioneer
Brand new battery
Current problem. When I turn up music my subs pound but my headlights dim to each beat. Don't know why?
couple of my thoughts were
-alternator not keeping up
-poor quality wires
-maybe a cap would fix this
Need some help from a pro.
Secondly, I'm going to upgrade my system. I can't decide on subs and amp.
I don't care what brand but I want some serious street level bass nothing crazy for a competition since I'm on a budget.
Thoughts for the upgrade would be:
12'' Alpine Type R 2ohm With Alpine MRP M500 amp
12'' Pioneer Sub Champion Series with Pioneer GM-D7400M amp
I'm open to other setups. I think 400-500rms is a good street level system but could be wrong lol. tell what you guys think.
Alternator: 60 amp
Deck: Pioneer DEH-2000MP
Wiring: Scoshe amp kit
Amp: Sony Xplod XM-1002HX
Subs: Jensen BP210
Speakers: Pioneer
Brand new battery
Current problem. When I turn up music my subs pound but my headlights dim to each beat. Don't know why?
couple of my thoughts were
-alternator not keeping up
-poor quality wires
-maybe a cap would fix this
Need some help from a pro.
Secondly, I'm going to upgrade my system. I can't decide on subs and amp.
I don't care what brand but I want some serious street level bass nothing crazy for a competition since I'm on a budget.
Thoughts for the upgrade would be:
12'' Alpine Type R 2ohm With Alpine MRP M500 amp
12'' Pioneer Sub Champion Series with Pioneer GM-D7400M amp
I'm open to other setups. I think 400-500rms is a good street level system but could be wrong lol. tell what you guys think.
#2
Definitely the alternator not being able to supply enough juice.
Up until a few weeks ago I was running my 10" TypeS with 410W available at 4 ohm. I had enough bass, but it was "ugly" sounding because of the band-pass box this sub was in.
Have a look at http://www.kicker.com/zx_amplifiers just for the amplifier. I was hoping they still made their 600W amp, which I have, since it would be great to power a TypeR with. But it doesn't appear that they do.
Alpine is great quality equipment. I only suggest trying to find a Kicker amp, since you may not have to fork out as much cash.
Before you do anything though, see if there is anyone in your that can upgrade your alternator.
Up until a few weeks ago I was running my 10" TypeS with 410W available at 4 ohm. I had enough bass, but it was "ugly" sounding because of the band-pass box this sub was in.
Have a look at http://www.kicker.com/zx_amplifiers just for the amplifier. I was hoping they still made their 600W amp, which I have, since it would be great to power a TypeR with. But it doesn't appear that they do.
Alpine is great quality equipment. I only suggest trying to find a Kicker amp, since you may not have to fork out as much cash.
Before you do anything though, see if there is anyone in your that can upgrade your alternator.
#3
Look into the BIG 3 as well. I saw a tutorial by Yuli recently I believe is stickied.
Sometimes upgrading the alternator alone will yield the same problem if your current wiring does not allow for currents greater than 60 amps. This can be the problem if everything in your car is stock since a company will generally not spend the extra money on large wiring that is not needed for the majority of their customers.
Regards,
Steven
edit: Oh and I'd say forget about the cap till you have the alt problem fixed, can cause more harm than good sometimes.
Sometimes upgrading the alternator alone will yield the same problem if your current wiring does not allow for currents greater than 60 amps. This can be the problem if everything in your car is stock since a company will generally not spend the extra money on large wiring that is not needed for the majority of their customers.
Regards,
Steven
edit: Oh and I'd say forget about the cap till you have the alt problem fixed, can cause more harm than good sometimes.
Last edited by EECiv; 01-20-2009 at 10:51 AM.
#4
you definately need a cap, the bigger, the better. You can get one here for super cheap ->
http://www.canadiancaraudio.com/onli...erms-pics.html
http://www.canadiancaraudio.com/onli...erms-pics.html
#6
I swear Yuli can smell fresh blood a mile away. Definitely do the big 3, you need to make the transfer of current as efficient as possible. Your alternator can only do so much for you given it's limited size. In the future a new alternator is going to be a real possibility for you.
For a new system, I still have some amazing deals left. Hit me up by PM or MSN and we can figure out what is right for you.
For a new system, I still have some amazing deals left. Hit me up by PM or MSN and we can figure out what is right for you.
#8
looked at the Yuli's tutorial. Finally I know what the big 3 means lol. I found a 90 amp alternator for my car. I'm going to get it installed for one. second, I'll be doing the Big 3. With that said, is that going to be enough for the alpine setup? cuz I think thats what I want to go with. on a side note I'm confused If I'm going to need a cap after I do the above.
#10
Make: 1993 Mazda Mx3 RS
Alternator: 60 amp
Deck: Pioneer DEH-2000MP
Wiring: Scoshe amp kit
Amp: Sony Xplod XM-1002HX
Subs: Jensen BP210
Speakers: Pioneer
Brand new battery
Current problem. When I turn up music my subs pound but my headlights dim to each beat. Don't know why?
couple of my thoughts were
-alternator not keeping up
-poor quality wires
-maybe a cap would fix this
Need some help from a pro.
Secondly, I'm going to upgrade my system. I can't decide on subs and amp.
I don't care what brand but I want some serious street level bass nothing crazy for a competition since I'm on a budget.
Thoughts for the upgrade would be:
12'' Alpine Type R 2ohm With Alpine MRP M500 amp
12'' Pioneer Sub Champion Series with Pioneer GM-D7400M amp
I'm open to other setups. I think 400-500rms is a good street level system but could be wrong lol. tell what you guys think.
Alternator: 60 amp
Deck: Pioneer DEH-2000MP
Wiring: Scoshe amp kit
Amp: Sony Xplod XM-1002HX
Subs: Jensen BP210
Speakers: Pioneer
Brand new battery
Current problem. When I turn up music my subs pound but my headlights dim to each beat. Don't know why?
couple of my thoughts were
-alternator not keeping up
-poor quality wires
-maybe a cap would fix this
Need some help from a pro.
Secondly, I'm going to upgrade my system. I can't decide on subs and amp.
I don't care what brand but I want some serious street level bass nothing crazy for a competition since I'm on a budget.
Thoughts for the upgrade would be:
12'' Alpine Type R 2ohm With Alpine MRP M500 amp
12'' Pioneer Sub Champion Series with Pioneer GM-D7400M amp
I'm open to other setups. I think 400-500rms is a good street level system but could be wrong lol. tell what you guys think.
if your going to get the type r with that amp, make sure the woofer is dual 4 ohm so you can wire it down to 2 ohms and get the most outta that amp. as far as the lights dimming, BIG 3 and a great starter battery is key.
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