Is this needed ?
09-20-2008, 01:17 PM
#11
You gonna have issues getting a high output alt for a Beemer, like me with my VW. I am soon getting an alt from Iraggi, and will post later if it worked out. SVA could not help me, cause of my German car, same as yours. Every alt shop keeps telling me, there are simply no parts to make one, Iraggi is the only one telling me it is a common build for them, so I will see if he is not just trying to make money from me.
Last edited by Sasha; 09-20-2008 at 01:20 PM.
09-22-2008, 12:14 AM
#12
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 364
You gonna have issues getting a high output alt for a Beemer, like me with my VW. I am soon getting an alt from Iraggi, and will post later if it worked out. SVA could not help me, cause of my German car, same as yours. Every alt shop keeps telling me, there are simply no parts to make one, Iraggi is the only one telling me it is a common build for them, so I will see if he is not just trying to make money from me.
09-22-2008, 09:43 AM
#13
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 8
lve the alternator. buy a few farad capacitor, and install a good battery. the capactior will help out alot in the amperage draw from the amp and it wont but the strain on the battery, it will put it on the cap. which is what its ment for.
09-22-2008, 11:41 AM
#15
09-22-2008, 05:59 PM
#19
I had a BMW 735 and I can offer a few points:
1. IF you install this alt and it breaks... tell me what in the WORLD would you do? Hope you're not taking a trip anywhere... Custom is great until something goes wrong. When you're dealing with a simpler made car, that's another thing.
2. IF you install this alt and something goes very wrong, have you given credence to the thought that your car may very well become and "electrical right off"? The price of re-building the car electrically will daunt you... A friggin catalytic CONVERTER is $4000!!!
3. I had a 750 watts RMS system running off a factory 140 amp alt in my car... It sounded quite loud and did not dissappoint even from a distance. Only reason to really go up that high in power in my opinion would be to compete and in that case, you're choosing the wrong car. Go 1000 RMS and enjoy your "ultimate driving machine". Want a boomin's system? My $0.02 is by a Chevy Astro and go boomin'
4. Bimmers are very fine tuned machines... you're liable to destroy the handling of your car with that much weight in the back... For example, the factory went to the extent of putting the battery in my car (and yours too I believe) in the back opposite the driver to perfect the handling and you're going to throw 250 lbs in the trunk... In fact I went with 2 smaller 10's and noticed a big enough difference that I drove the car without the subs in it a number of times.
T
P.S. LISTEN TO YULI
1. IF you install this alt and it breaks... tell me what in the WORLD would you do? Hope you're not taking a trip anywhere... Custom is great until something goes wrong. When you're dealing with a simpler made car, that's another thing.
2. IF you install this alt and something goes very wrong, have you given credence to the thought that your car may very well become and "electrical right off"? The price of re-building the car electrically will daunt you... A friggin catalytic CONVERTER is $4000!!!
3. I had a 750 watts RMS system running off a factory 140 amp alt in my car... It sounded quite loud and did not dissappoint even from a distance. Only reason to really go up that high in power in my opinion would be to compete and in that case, you're choosing the wrong car. Go 1000 RMS and enjoy your "ultimate driving machine". Want a boomin's system? My $0.02 is by a Chevy Astro and go boomin'
4. Bimmers are very fine tuned machines... you're liable to destroy the handling of your car with that much weight in the back... For example, the factory went to the extent of putting the battery in my car (and yours too I believe) in the back opposite the driver to perfect the handling and you're going to throw 250 lbs in the trunk... In fact I went with 2 smaller 10's and noticed a big enough difference that I drove the car without the subs in it a number of times.
T
P.S. LISTEN TO YULI
Last edited by tonez735; 09-22-2008 at 06:03 PM.
09-22-2008, 08:38 PM
#20
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 364
Alright , thanks for the tips but for some reason i have i have 1000RMS going to sub now in a Bassworx box . I have a Pioneer Premier hooked upto a Crunch GP2500d Amp and i smell some smokes . I'm trying to say that im not feeling the bass at all. it sounds like as if i have small 10" BMW stock sub ???
Which subs will you recommend which can get real low and loud in 1000RMS of power and is my amp good enough ? Says its 1250 RMS x 1 ohm ?
Or should i just go big with that alternator something like 2000 RMS ? Or no , just asking ?
Or 2 Kicker L7's in a Custom Built Box with my Current Crunch amp ? says that its 1250 RMS im not sure if it really is that and it also says it 2500 Watts Peak ... Will that be good ?
One last thing , My cars current Battery is weak , which would you guys recommend if i wanted to replace it , like i need a battery to power the car and the system ?
Which subs will you recommend which can get real low and loud in 1000RMS of power and is my amp good enough ? Says its 1250 RMS x 1 ohm ?
Or should i just go big with that alternator something like 2000 RMS ? Or no , just asking ?
Or 2 Kicker L7's in a Custom Built Box with my Current Crunch amp ? says that its 1250 RMS im not sure if it really is that and it also says it 2500 Watts Peak ... Will that be good ?
One last thing , My cars current Battery is weak , which would you guys recommend if i wanted to replace it , like i need a battery to power the car and the system ?
Last edited by King-Kong; 09-22-2008 at 08:46 PM.
