Power issues.....Please Read
12-10-2006, 12:39 PM
#11
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 478
Originally Posted by OSDawg
So I've searched this forum for my answer and decided to ask you people for help on my problem. I'm new to car audio, so please bare with me.
I have 2 punch 10", pushed with a 520w amp. These items are in a '07 Chevy Silverado. Now, I noticed when I got the truck that the interior lights would dim when I hit the window switches, sometimes the hitting the brake would cause the same issue. When this is happening, the voltage meter on the dash, flucuates between 12 & 14 volts. Seems like a power issue. So when I hooked up my system, the amp loses power when the bass hits. Also putting a voltage meter on the amp shows it drop from 14v to 12v when the bass hits and sometimes even further. This worsens as I increase the volume to the point that the amp cuts out completely. My alternator pushes 145 amps. This seems to be plenty of amperage for the size amp & subs that I have. I had the same amp with 2 12" Bostwicks in a 2001, same model truck and never had problems.
What is the problem and what is the cheapest way to fix it? I've read a few things about the big 3. Please explain the big 3? I believe its something to do with wiring 'must'.
Thanks!
I have 2 punch 10", pushed with a 520w amp. These items are in a '07 Chevy Silverado. Now, I noticed when I got the truck that the interior lights would dim when I hit the window switches, sometimes the hitting the brake would cause the same issue. When this is happening, the voltage meter on the dash, flucuates between 12 & 14 volts. Seems like a power issue. So when I hooked up my system, the amp loses power when the bass hits. Also putting a voltage meter on the amp shows it drop from 14v to 12v when the bass hits and sometimes even further. This worsens as I increase the volume to the point that the amp cuts out completely. My alternator pushes 145 amps. This seems to be plenty of amperage for the size amp & subs that I have. I had the same amp with 2 12" Bostwicks in a 2001, same model truck and never had problems.
What is the problem and what is the cheapest way to fix it? I've read a few things about the big 3. Please explain the big 3? I believe its something to do with wiring 'must'.
Thanks!
12-13-2006, 07:14 PM
#12
Originally Posted by mayhem
huh? class d`s are more efficent DRIVING subs than a AB because they provide much more power, therefore as a result depending on you sub/amp combo will have a far greater current draw that a 2 or 4channel amp. buying a mono block will not fix this problem.
12-14-2006, 06:03 AM
#13
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 7
Originally Posted by Smoke_31
Have you tried anything out yet or what? Let us know how its going.
I haven't tried the big three. I have a Chevy Silverado, I'm assuming all battery power and ground is already 4 gauge, looks to be anyway. The only wire that I could upgrade is the one from the alternator to the battery. It looks like 10-12 gauge. I just haven't explored on how to rig up that plug that goes into the alternator.
Any suggestions on what I've done and what could still be the problem? I'm thinking its not a power issue anymore.
12-14-2006, 09:17 AM
#14
The new trucks usually come with a pretty big alternator, especially if its a V8. My chevy came with 2 ga. battery to starter, but only 4 ga. alt to starter.
I thought it was strange that it was wired that way but apparently its common. While i was installing and was under the car anyway, i checked all the connections i could get to. quite a few of the nuts were fairly loose, so i tightened them up. Don't know if that makes a difference, but you'd better check. Something else thats hard to find is a bad crimp connection, you can drop a lot of voltage on a bad crimp. You can find these with a voltmeter and a lot of searching. With your system running loud, measure volts at alt, at battery, at fuse box, at amps etc., etc. You'll find the places where voltage drops.
I'm running a whole lot more power and i have to go beyond the pain theshold before i can get the lights to dim on idle. no dimming at all at 2k rpm. That's why i still suspect a connection problem.
Edit: Your truck is brand new, Tell the dealer that your alt is bad. They can test it at idle and under load.
I thought it was strange that it was wired that way but apparently its common. While i was installing and was under the car anyway, i checked all the connections i could get to. quite a few of the nuts were fairly loose, so i tightened them up. Don't know if that makes a difference, but you'd better check. Something else thats hard to find is a bad crimp connection, you can drop a lot of voltage on a bad crimp. You can find these with a voltmeter and a lot of searching. With your system running loud, measure volts at alt, at battery, at fuse box, at amps etc., etc. You'll find the places where voltage drops.
I'm running a whole lot more power and i have to go beyond the pain theshold before i can get the lights to dim on idle. no dimming at all at 2k rpm. That's why i still suspect a connection problem.
Edit: Your truck is brand new, Tell the dealer that your alt is bad. They can test it at idle and under load.
Last edited by Tom.F.1; 12-14-2006 at 09:21 AM.
12-14-2006, 08:40 PM
#16
Improperly set gains can cause dimming. For about a day my lights would dim at high volume, so I broke out the voltmeter and set my gain properly. No more dimming. This is with a class d 400W rms amp and the stock 140 amp alternator.
12-18-2006, 02:32 PM
#17
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 7
Okay folks, I found the problem and I still can't explain it. Maybe someone here can.
Since I couldn't find the problem I upgraded my amp from a power acoustic 520w, gothic series amp, to a Rockford Fosgate P325.1. When I connected the RF amp, it wouldn't power up. I reconnected the PA amp and it would work, so this was very baffling. I knew my power and grounds were solid. So I'm thinking the REM connection is bad. So I ran a short piece of wire from the battery terminal to the REM terminal and the RF amp powered up! I then moved the REM to a source in the fuse box as opposed to the back of the deck.
Interesting how the connection was good for the PA amp and no good for the RF amp.
My interior lights, nor my headlights dim when the bass hits. They only dim when I use the electric windows. It's not bad, so I'm not going to worry with it.
No more clipping.
Since I couldn't find the problem I upgraded my amp from a power acoustic 520w, gothic series amp, to a Rockford Fosgate P325.1. When I connected the RF amp, it wouldn't power up. I reconnected the PA amp and it would work, so this was very baffling. I knew my power and grounds were solid. So I'm thinking the REM connection is bad. So I ran a short piece of wire from the battery terminal to the REM terminal and the RF amp powered up! I then moved the REM to a source in the fuse box as opposed to the back of the deck.
Interesting how the connection was good for the PA amp and no good for the RF amp.
My interior lights, nor my headlights dim when the bass hits. They only dim when I use the electric windows. It's not bad, so I'm not going to worry with it.
No more clipping.
12-18-2006, 07:55 PM
#18
REM Terminal – The heavy duty, nickel-plated captive c-clamp wire connector will accept wire sizes from 12 AWG to 24 AWG.This terminal is used to remotely turn-on and turn-off the amplifier when +12V DC is applied.
^^^^^
Out of the amp manual.
If your deck is not supplying enough on the remote wire the amp won't turn on.
I remember older decks were like 2v or something.
And I guess I was more or less correct that a proper class BD in your case solved your issues just like it did in my situation.
^^^^^
Out of the amp manual.
If your deck is not supplying enough on the remote wire the amp won't turn on.
I remember older decks were like 2v or something.
And I guess I was more or less correct that a proper class BD in your case solved your issues just like it did in my situation.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
