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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 02:18 PM
  #11  
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4 ga is a little small for 200A
Old Dec 5, 2012 | 02:30 PM
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Just looked in the subs they are wired at 2 ohm I'm ready to say I don't even want this amp any more this is the one amp I've had an issue with it is power hungry .
Old Dec 5, 2012 | 02:40 PM
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Post the exact model of the amp?
Do you have a solid fuse or a breaker?
Post some pictures of your equipment and wiring.

You can try removing the cap, and on the amp turn the bass boost down and gain down and see if it will work.
Old Dec 5, 2012 | 02:51 PM
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Rockford T1500.1Bd and I'm using a breaker the gain is on three and the bass boost is maybe on 1/3 it only happened on low bass
Old Dec 5, 2012 | 02:54 PM
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Model number of breaker or link where I can see the specs?
Old Dec 5, 2012 | 04:00 PM
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 04:07 PM
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Some reviews states that the breaker trips well below 200A (cheaply built). You might want to try a solid fuse arrangement, and upgrade your wire and electrical as a whole, if you would be running a high amprage system.
Old Dec 5, 2012 | 10:53 PM
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Dfoulkrod, the more information you give us, the better we'll be able to help you.
As always, pictures are worth a thousand words.

Just looked in the subs they are wired at 2 ohm
I still want to see a picture of how the wiring has been done, and how the subs' speaker wires are connected to the terminal(s) on the amp. Ideally, the pair of subs has been wired for two ohms, and there's only one set of terminals being used on the amp. I'm still confused by an earlier comment where you said that "both channels" are being used...
Hope you can clarify.

To anyone else that's following this thread...
Shouldn't the fuse selection be based on either; the current that can be drawn from a system in regular operation, or the power wire's capacity for passing current?
Old Dec 6, 2012 | 08:04 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by TragicMagic
Dfoulkrod, the more information you give us, the better we'll be able to help you.
As always, pictures are worth a thousand words.

I still want to see a picture of how the wiring has been done, and how the subs' speaker wires are connected to the terminal(s) on the amp. Ideally, the pair of subs has been wired for two ohms, and there's only one set of terminals being used on the amp. I'm still confused by an earlier comment where you said that "both channels" are being used...
Hope you can clarify.

To anyone else that's following this thread...
Shouldn't the fuse selection be based on either; the current that can be drawn from a system in regular operation, or the power wire's capacity for passing current?
If the amp has its own on board fusing, then only the power wire requires a fuse which should be loacted close to the battery and rated for the current carrying capacity of that wire, in othere words it's there for protection to the circuit.

If the amp does not have on board fusing then 2 fuse is required, one by the battery and one next to the amp (rated as specified by amp's user manual, or can be calculated or measured).

In the case of a single amp both fuses can be the same rating, as the amp's fuse rating should always be less than the current carrying capacity of the wire and that (amp fuse) rating is used in this case.

Last edited by Sonic; Dec 6, 2012 at 08:08 AM.
Old Dec 6, 2012 | 10:31 AM
  #20  
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I agree, Sonic. I guess I'm asking for a given length and gauge of wire that is good for a hypothetical 120A draw, but the amplifier only needs to pull 80A to operate - would it be any wiser to fuse for 80A?



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