Setup Help
06-27-2006, 11:17 AM
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 31
Setup Help
I am trying to tune my sub to match up with my components and am having a little trouble.
The front stage is a set of the Focal 165V Slims running on an SRx4. I have the gain turned way down on these speakers otherwise they over power everything.
Currently I have the crossover on the deck set to -8db on the fronts too to help try and match them up with the sub better.
The deck is an alpine 9835.
The deck's crossover for the sub is set at 80Hz and I have a single IDQ12D2 running on an US Amps USA-600x amp.
When the car is parked the sub and fronts line up pretty good but when I am driving somewhere the sub just sounds really distant.
as a side note: when the fronts were installed I had sound deading applied to the doors.
I installed the sub and amp only a couple of weeks ago and I seem to remember the sub hitting with more presence when driving when I first set it up.
But since then I've adjusted the settings on the sub amp and probably should have left it alone because now the bass doesn't seem to hit the same.
I tried to measure the gain using a DMM and the meter was reading out at close to 70 Volts. So I turned down the gain trying to get it around 40V. But I ended up turning it all the way down to 0 and the DMM was still reading close to 70V.
So I gave up and tried to set the gain back to roughly where I had it before and since then things just don't sound as good as they did before.
I took another shot at it with the DMM yesterday and when i tested the levels with the DMM putting the leads on the bridged terminals it was reading around 80V but if I put the leads on a single channel the voltage dropped in half.
Based on all the information about setting the gain I should have sqrt(500*4) = 42.72V and when measuring a single channel the read out was close to that (around 40V) but the information I was reading said to measure off the terminals I have the speaker wire running to and that reads out at close to (80V).
This amp is rated at 600 Watts x 1 and if the DMM readings were correct when I testing it using the bridged configuration that would mean the amp was actually outputing over 1000W. Which seems VERY unlikly to be that under-rated.
I currently have the gain set to little over 50% and I do not hear the sub cutting out or anything it just doesn't seems to not be playing as loud as it was.
But if the car isnt in motion the sub just seems a whole lot louder.
I wish I could remember where I had everything set originally.
The front stage is a set of the Focal 165V Slims running on an SRx4. I have the gain turned way down on these speakers otherwise they over power everything.
Currently I have the crossover on the deck set to -8db on the fronts too to help try and match them up with the sub better.
The deck is an alpine 9835.
The deck's crossover for the sub is set at 80Hz and I have a single IDQ12D2 running on an US Amps USA-600x amp.
When the car is parked the sub and fronts line up pretty good but when I am driving somewhere the sub just sounds really distant.
as a side note: when the fronts were installed I had sound deading applied to the doors.
I installed the sub and amp only a couple of weeks ago and I seem to remember the sub hitting with more presence when driving when I first set it up.
But since then I've adjusted the settings on the sub amp and probably should have left it alone because now the bass doesn't seem to hit the same.
I tried to measure the gain using a DMM and the meter was reading out at close to 70 Volts. So I turned down the gain trying to get it around 40V. But I ended up turning it all the way down to 0 and the DMM was still reading close to 70V.
So I gave up and tried to set the gain back to roughly where I had it before and since then things just don't sound as good as they did before.
I took another shot at it with the DMM yesterday and when i tested the levels with the DMM putting the leads on the bridged terminals it was reading around 80V but if I put the leads on a single channel the voltage dropped in half.
Based on all the information about setting the gain I should have sqrt(500*4) = 42.72V and when measuring a single channel the read out was close to that (around 40V) but the information I was reading said to measure off the terminals I have the speaker wire running to and that reads out at close to (80V).
This amp is rated at 600 Watts x 1 and if the DMM readings were correct when I testing it using the bridged configuration that would mean the amp was actually outputing over 1000W. Which seems VERY unlikly to be that under-rated.
I currently have the gain set to little over 50% and I do not hear the sub cutting out or anything it just doesn't seems to not be playing as loud as it was.
But if the car isnt in motion the sub just seems a whole lot louder.
I wish I could remember where I had everything set originally.
Last edited by ingeo; 06-27-2006 at 11:24 AM.
06-27-2006, 12:13 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 31
I do not have my camera with me or I would snap a pic. The box is nothing fancy My cousin took a stab a building the box.
It is a very small enclosure and should be 0.85 ft^3. He sealed up all the seams of the box with silicone and aside from a small bit of a air leaking around the speaker plug cup everything appears to be solid and air tight.
It is a very small enclosure and should be 0.85 ft^3. He sealed up all the seams of the box with silicone and aside from a small bit of a air leaking around the speaker plug cup everything appears to be solid and air tight.
06-27-2006, 12:24 PM
#4
Originally Posted by ingeo
I do not have my camera with me or I would snap a pic. The box is nothing fancy My cousin took a stab a building the box.
It is a very small enclosure and should be 0.85 ft^3. He sealed up all the seams of the box with silicone and aside from a small bit of a air leaking around the speaker plug cup everything appears to be solid and air tight.
It is a very small enclosure and should be 0.85 ft^3. He sealed up all the seams of the box with silicone and aside from a small bit of a air leaking around the speaker plug cup everything appears to be solid and air tight.
this you need to fix "bit of a air leaking around the speaker plug cup everything appears to be solid and air tight"
if you have a air leak this can f u up if you are trying to set up the car
06-27-2006, 12:30 PM
#5
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 31
The box isn't carpeted or anything yet because I was trying out the enclosure.
I do not want to silicone around the speaker terminal cup just yet. Is there another way I could make sure everything is air tight until I either carpet the box or build a new one?
I have some polyfill from an old setup. Would it help placing that in the box?
I do not want to silicone around the speaker terminal cup just yet. Is there another way I could make sure everything is air tight until I either carpet the box or build a new one?
I have some polyfill from an old setup. Would it help placing that in the box?
06-27-2006, 12:43 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 31
Sorry if this is a little dumb sounding... but seal it with what?
I'd like to be able to remove the cup if I build a different box without wrecking the current one.
If I made another box, I'd probably build around 1 ft^3 to try it.
Any advice on setting the gain or why my voltage was reading double of what the formula said it should be?
I'd like to be able to remove the cup if I build a different box without wrecking the current one.
If I made another box, I'd probably build around 1 ft^3 to try it.
Any advice on setting the gain or why my voltage was reading double of what the formula said it should be?
06-27-2006, 10:26 PM
#10
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 3
Does the serial code on the processor have to match the serial code on the dvdplayer?
hey im about to buy a Pionner AVH 6500 and it comes with a 6600 "brain" (processor) i was wondering if the serial codes have to match in order to play dvds
