Some questions about 2 batteries.
01-29-2006, 09:32 PM
#1
I did a search and had a lot of my questions answered about getting a second battery. But some still remain.
If i had two batteries, 1 stock and 1 stinger is it hard on my stock alternator?
Could i have two batteries side by side under the hood and just connect + to + and the - to -with 0 gauge wire then hook my amp to the new battery and call it done? Would that be plenty power for my 1300W amp? Thnx a bunch
If i had two batteries, 1 stock and 1 stinger is it hard on my stock alternator?
Could i have two batteries side by side under the hood and just connect + to + and the - to -with 0 gauge wire then hook my amp to the new battery and call it done? Would that be plenty power for my 1300W amp? Thnx a bunch
01-30-2006, 11:47 AM
#4
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 756
No, your alternator should be adequate. It's a 105 amp alternator.
Yes, you can combine the two betteries in a vehicle as you said, but the benifits of the Stinger battery will be voided since you'll still have a stock liquid battery in there. It creates a bottleneck, reducing overall system voltage, so having the Stinger in there won't really improve anything, unless it's used as a stereo battery only (mounted as close to the amps as possible, with amp power cables running short and straight to the Stinger).
Until you remove or replace the stock battery, that is.
So, either pull the stock one and just run with the Stinger only, or get another Stinger, or equivalent.
I run an Orbital in the front of my van (same drivetrain as your Blazer), and two more in the back, just for the stereo. Stock, 105 amp alternator.
[ January 30, 2006, 12:50 PM: Message edited by: GrizZz ]
Yes, you can combine the two betteries in a vehicle as you said, but the benifits of the Stinger battery will be voided since you'll still have a stock liquid battery in there. It creates a bottleneck, reducing overall system voltage, so having the Stinger in there won't really improve anything, unless it's used as a stereo battery only (mounted as close to the amps as possible, with amp power cables running short and straight to the Stinger).
Until you remove or replace the stock battery, that is.
So, either pull the stock one and just run with the Stinger only, or get another Stinger, or equivalent.
I run an Orbital in the front of my van (same drivetrain as your Blazer), and two more in the back, just for the stereo. Stock, 105 amp alternator.
[ January 30, 2006, 12:50 PM: Message edited by: GrizZz ]
01-30-2006, 08:21 PM
#6
So if i took out my stock battery and put the stinger battery in its place everything in my car will run perfectly normal and my amplifier will run more "cleanly", get more power, and no more dimming of the lights am i right?
I was reading some reviews on cardomain about the - http://www.cardomain.com/item/STISP800 -battery. Does anyone have an idea of why two reviews said this battery isn't a good idea for a main battery? Do you guys think it would work alright in my blazer for a main battery?
All i have to do to replace my battery is unhook the negative then unhook everything from the positive. Rehook everything to the new batteries positive terminal and hook up the negative and i am good to go?
I was reading some reviews on cardomain about the - http://www.cardomain.com/item/STISP800 -battery. Does anyone have an idea of why two reviews said this battery isn't a good idea for a main battery? Do you guys think it would work alright in my blazer for a main battery?
All i have to do to replace my battery is unhook the negative then unhook everything from the positive. Rehook everything to the new batteries positive terminal and hook up the negative and i am good to go?
01-31-2006, 08:24 AM
#7
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 756
That little Stinger is pretty small, it'd be good for a Honda, but for a Chevy truck, I'd recommend more oomph. Go Optima, an Optima 800U red top will bolt right in, easy as pie. Or if you're hooked on Stingers at least get a bigger one, as close in physical size to your original battery as possible. You'll notice an Optima's improvements to your overall electical immediately.
As for your light dimming, etc. Yes, it will improve all that. It may not be a total cure, but it's a step in the right direction.
Have you done the "Big Three"? The Big 3 is imperetive, I wouldn't spend your money on a super battery until you've first invested a little money and time into improving your cabling.
As for your light dimming, etc. Yes, it will improve all that. It may not be a total cure, but it's a step in the right direction.
Have you done the "Big Three"? The Big 3 is imperetive, I wouldn't spend your money on a super battery until you've first invested a little money and time into improving your cabling.
01-31-2006, 02:54 PM
#8
actually, that is why i have checked out these batteries. Lots of people were telling me to do the big 3 when i mentioned something about a capacitor so i checked it out at the local car audio store and the dude said it wouldn't do much unless my wires are really old and rusty. Then we started talking about batteries then he got busy and left so i finished asking the questions on here.
01-31-2006, 03:02 PM
#9
Well he's wrong and this is why. If you ground your amp to the chassis with with 0-2gauge but the little grounding strap from the battery that goes to the chassis thats under the hood is a 8 gauge wire or strap, then in theory your amp is really only grounded with 8 gauge. Also an alt. can deliver more power and quicker with a 4 gauge wire vs. the nice factory 8-10gauge it comes with.
01-31-2006, 05:13 PM
#10
Alright, i guess that makes good sense. So would you say 4 gauge wire is good enough or do you think it is alot better to use 0 gauge wire when doing the "big 3"?
It won't harm anything by unplugging the negative terminal from the battery will it? (other than reseting my H.U. settings
)
It won't harm anything by unplugging the negative terminal from the battery will it? (other than reseting my H.U. settings
)
