Some questions about 2 batteries.
01-31-2006, 06:55 PM
#11
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 91
(GrizZz here on the wife's PC)
Hokay... ya want it spelled out eh, alrighty then... Print this out and you can use it as a guideline when you do the job.
1) 4 gauge is okay, 2 gauge is better, 1, 0, 1/0, 2/0 are all good too. If you want to compete for SPL in the near future, then yes, go right up to the really thick stuff, 1/0 or 2/0. But for now I'd just add 4 or 2 and be done with it until you need more in the future. I myself still only use 2, and I compete with it. Hi-flex welding cable is generally cheaper and better than stereo shop cable, it just doesn't look as pretty. You can find it locally at most industrial parts suppliers, grab a phone and search that way. Get some good copper lugs for the cable ends, and crimp AND solder & shrink wrap them. Crimp them for a good connection, and solder and shrink them to keep out the elements.
2) Yes, disconnect negative(s) at the battery, do the job, then replace the negative(s) after you're all done. Having a DT (Dual Terminal) battery (both top and side posts) will make the job much easier, and will work very well in your Blazer. With a DT, you can leave the OEM sidepost connections as is, and add your new cabling to the top posts.
3) Do not "chop" any existing wiring, just add more.
4) Install a piece ("The Big #1") from the ground (negative connection at the battery) to the vehicle body, usually the rad support or inside fenderwell is used for this piece.
5) Then add another ground ("The Big #2"), from the battery connection(s), to the engine itself. You can bolt it to the alternator bracket, or sometimes an intake manifold bolt, or any other accessable place on the engine. Don't head for the exhaust manifold bolts, unless you really know what you're doing.
6) Those two are the easy ones. Next, you want to run a new cable ("The Big #3") from the positive connection at the battery, to the output post on your alternator. Tie-strap this cable along it's route securely, you do NOT want it getting caught up in the rad fan, drive belts, or melting against an exhaust manifold. This cable should also be fused (for safe daily drivability). You must use a fuse with a larger rating than your alternator, so you want an ANL type 125 or 150, and holder for it. So, run the cable from the battery to the fuse holder (mounted close to the battery, you want no more than 12 in. of cable between the battery and the fuse), then from the fuse holder to the alternator. Hardcore SPL'ers will frown at the fuse, but if it's a daily driver, you'll want it for the safety. Anyone have a link to that burning up VW handy?
And that's it, your're done. Reconnect your battery's ground, and go for a drive. Crank up the tunes, watch your voltmeter, you should see a vast improvement right away.
THEN, if you're still not happy with it all, THEN go get an Optima (or other super battery) and pull out that stock one.
Hokay... ya want it spelled out eh, alrighty then... Print this out and you can use it as a guideline when you do the job.
1) 4 gauge is okay, 2 gauge is better, 1, 0, 1/0, 2/0 are all good too. If you want to compete for SPL in the near future, then yes, go right up to the really thick stuff, 1/0 or 2/0. But for now I'd just add 4 or 2 and be done with it until you need more in the future. I myself still only use 2, and I compete with it. Hi-flex welding cable is generally cheaper and better than stereo shop cable, it just doesn't look as pretty. You can find it locally at most industrial parts suppliers, grab a phone and search that way. Get some good copper lugs for the cable ends, and crimp AND solder & shrink wrap them. Crimp them for a good connection, and solder and shrink them to keep out the elements.
2) Yes, disconnect negative(s) at the battery, do the job, then replace the negative(s) after you're all done. Having a DT (Dual Terminal) battery (both top and side posts) will make the job much easier, and will work very well in your Blazer. With a DT, you can leave the OEM sidepost connections as is, and add your new cabling to the top posts.
3) Do not "chop" any existing wiring, just add more.
4) Install a piece ("The Big #1") from the ground (negative connection at the battery) to the vehicle body, usually the rad support or inside fenderwell is used for this piece.
5) Then add another ground ("The Big #2"), from the battery connection(s), to the engine itself. You can bolt it to the alternator bracket, or sometimes an intake manifold bolt, or any other accessable place on the engine. Don't head for the exhaust manifold bolts, unless you really know what you're doing.
6) Those two are the easy ones. Next, you want to run a new cable ("The Big #3") from the positive connection at the battery, to the output post on your alternator. Tie-strap this cable along it's route securely, you do NOT want it getting caught up in the rad fan, drive belts, or melting against an exhaust manifold. This cable should also be fused (for safe daily drivability). You must use a fuse with a larger rating than your alternator, so you want an ANL type 125 or 150, and holder for it. So, run the cable from the battery to the fuse holder (mounted close to the battery, you want no more than 12 in. of cable between the battery and the fuse), then from the fuse holder to the alternator. Hardcore SPL'ers will frown at the fuse, but if it's a daily driver, you'll want it for the safety. Anyone have a link to that burning up VW handy?
And that's it, your're done. Reconnect your battery's ground, and go for a drive. Crank up the tunes, watch your voltmeter, you should see a vast improvement right away.
THEN, if you're still not happy with it all, THEN go get an Optima (or other super battery) and pull out that stock one.
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