really? i thought larger subs typically had an easier time playing lower notes.

 

A larger (read heavier) cone is harder to control at lower frequencies. Although the cone moves slower at lower HZ, it has to travel in and out farther.

 

in general they do, But in order to keep them "tighter" sounding or handle more power mechanically(not bottom out) some larger subs have incredibly stiff suspensions to control th big heavy cone and control mechanical travel better.

Most dedicated SPL subs have a high FS because they are often given 4-5X the power they are rated for for short burps, and usually are only playing over 45Hz.

For a really loud daily driver that can still play music without sounding like a fart box you have be a little more carefull in choosing your subs.

 

the dam MTX has an aluminum cone. pretty much all of theyre subs do ( almost ) thats the only brand i know so far

 

Eclipse used to...but they "ping" and add their own hgher frequency harmonic. Not enough damping. Paper, Kevlar and CF are what all the serious SPL subs are made of for a reason

 

I wouldnt want a set up that was JUST made for spl. I would want it to be 140-145dB daily driver, that I could pound all day What would you guys recomend for a set up that could reach my dB goal and still be able to play regular music with reasonable sq when I want it to? Thanks again guys, I realy appreciate your advice!!!

 

what car ya have?

 

its hard to hit the numbers your talking about and maintain good SQ

Only woofer i can think of that could do what you want are the Image Dynamics IDMAX 12"s

 

Thanks jalat, and you are probably right, thats a little to much to ask for eh? lol Sikk Nation, I have a 2001 Mazda Protege 5spd.

 

trunk car too... 12" kicker L7 in about 3.8cubes, with 18Sq.in of port tuned to 38hz should get you close with a solid 1200Wrms amp and adequate wiring and grounds.