Which sub to use with orion hcca 250?
02-19-2007, 07:53 PM
#11
I'd take that Orion any day.
Let's see where a 800 - 1,000 watt JL is in 16 years from now.
That amp is one of my first choices any day of the week.
So maybe they draw 5-10 amps more than a class D... if the success or failure of your charging system depends on that, you're far closer to the edge of failure than you should be in my opinion.
The build quality of that amp is absolutely unrivalled by 99% of the amps made today.
Hook that baby up and let 'er rip.
I like the Eclipse subs as well.
Let's see where a 800 - 1,000 watt JL is in 16 years from now.
That amp is one of my first choices any day of the week.
So maybe they draw 5-10 amps more than a class D... if the success or failure of your charging system depends on that, you're far closer to the edge of failure than you should be in my opinion.
The build quality of that amp is absolutely unrivalled by 99% of the amps made today.
Hook that baby up and let 'er rip.
I like the Eclipse subs as well.
02-19-2007, 08:26 PM
#12
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 151
No one said that class A/B amps dont work or wouldnt work. The orion hcca amps are not very efficient space heaters ( they were painted red so people wouldnt notice them glow) and unlike 16 years ago there are better options out there today for amplifiers and subwoofers.
Originally Posted by MR2NR
And for the last 6 they have continued to work just fine as well. It is only in the last 6 that class D amps have come to the market.
02-19-2007, 08:37 PM
#13
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 151
5-10 amps more than a class D? hcca 250 at one ohm can eat 100amp fuses all day long. The hcca 2100 wasnt even fuseable in it's day. I ran gx and sx amps back in the day that were only two ohm stable and they were bad enough on a pair of 150watt subwoofers.
Originally Posted by tonez735
I'd take that Orion any day.
Let's see where a 800 - 1,000 watt JL is in 16 years from now.
That amp is one of my first choices any day of the week.
So maybe they draw 5-10 amps more than a class D... if the success or failure of your charging system depends on that, you're far closer to the edge of failure than you should be in my opinion.
The build quality of that amp is absolutely unrivalled by 99% of the amps made today.
Hook that baby up and let 'er rip.
I like the Eclipse subs as well.
Let's see where a 800 - 1,000 watt JL is in 16 years from now.
That amp is one of my first choices any day of the week.
So maybe they draw 5-10 amps more than a class D... if the success or failure of your charging system depends on that, you're far closer to the edge of failure than you should be in my opinion.
The build quality of that amp is absolutely unrivalled by 99% of the amps made today.
Hook that baby up and let 'er rip.
I like the Eclipse subs as well.
02-19-2007, 11:03 PM
#14
I suppose we've had different experiences with these amps....
I had one bridged @ 1 ohm and never popped an 80 amp fuse and if an amp is designed to run hot... then does it matter if it gets hot?
Suppose this is an old school vs. new school debate....
I had one bridged @ 1 ohm and never popped an 80 amp fuse and if an amp is designed to run hot... then does it matter if it gets hot?
Suppose this is an old school vs. new school debate....
02-20-2007, 03:58 AM
#16
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 151
Yes that is right you just said it, the amp is designed and engineered to be inefficient and this is why I would not use it for driving subwoofers, just as I wouldnt use a electric heater to heat my home.
Originally Posted by MR2NR
Lets see, the amp is designed and engineered to get hot, it gets hot, it stays hot and does not shut down, I don't see the problem here. It does exactly what it was designed to do.
