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Switching from fronts & rears to front comps only. Need hookup advice!

Old 05-22-2014, 10:11 AM
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Switching from fronts & rears to front comps only. Need hookup advice!

Hello all. I am new to this forum but not a total stranger to car audio.

I am finally ready to make the switch to front comps only in my 1990 Corvette coupe.

I am currently running Polk MM5251 comps in front and Polk MM691 in the rear powered by an Alpine KTP-445 power pack connected to an Alpine CDA-105.

I am switching to Polk MM6501 front comps powered by a JL Audio XD400/4 (already have the amp).

What is the best way for me to connect these comps with the 4 channel amp to maximize safe power usage for SQ without worrying about burning up the speakers? I should note that I will be installing 1 JL Audio 10W6v2 mated to a JL Audio XD600/1. Also note that although I would like to crank it once and a while, I am mostly interested in SQ.

1. Run front amp channels only to the passive crossovers and leave rear channels empty?
2. Bridge the channels and run through the passive crossovers?
3. Power tweeters with front channels through the passive crossovers and power woofers directly hooked up to the rear channels and use the amp crossover to cut rear signals?

Pros & cons to each option above?


Specs on the JL Audio XD400/4:
XD400/4 - Car Audio - Amplifiers - XD - JL Audio

Continuous RMS power @ 14.4V
@ 4 Ω 75 W RMS x 4
@ 2 Ω 100 W RMS x 4
Bridged @ 4Ω 200 W RMS x 2

Continuous RMS power @ 12V
@ 4 Ω 60 W RMS x 4
@ 2 Ω 90 W RMS x 4
Bridged @ 4Ω 180 W RMS x 2


Specs on Polk MM6501:
MM6501 - Car | Polk AudioŽ

Power handling each channel = 125 watts RMS
Speakers are 2.7 ohm nominal impedance


Thank you in advance for your advice!
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Old 05-22-2014, 12:33 PM
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Use the passive crossovers the speakers come with and bridge the front/rear channels for the extra power. More power is never a bad thing.
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Old 05-22-2014, 02:23 PM
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^ That's probably the easiest option and the only one that doesn't need an outboard crossover.
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Old 05-22-2014, 03:21 PM
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Is there any danger with connecting the 2.7 ohm speaker load to the 4 ohm bridged connection? Will that not result in more than 200 watts RMS going to each speaker? I agree it would be easiest and simplest connection (frankly i am just fine with that), but i just don't want to burn the speakers up.
Thanks.
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Old 05-22-2014, 06:52 PM
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You shouldn't have any problems. The theory is the factory wiring will provide enough resistance to bring it back up to 4 ohm. Like any speaker in any set up you'll have to adjust the high pass filter for the speakers after they're installed at the normal volume you listen to them at. Don't worry about feeding them 200 watts.
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Old 05-23-2014, 01:35 AM
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2.7 ohms is weird lol...... they will be getting a lot more than 200wrms per side. make sure you have the gains down really low and to make sure the amp is stable bridged at 2 ohm
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