Where to cross over mids/subs
#1
Where to cross over mids/subs
Hi Guys,
Have a question for some of you gurus... I'm getting close to completing my install, then it's into the setup. Here's what I'm going to be running:
Headunit: Pioneer DEH-P670MP
Speakers:
CDT ES-07.1 Gold components - CDTAudio top quality audio components
Alpine Type-R 6.5" coaxials
Amps:
Alpine MRV-T757 (100W x 2 @ 4 ohm)
Audison LRx 1.400 (650Wx1 @ 2 ohm, 900Wx1 @ 1 ohm)
Subs:
2 x Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1's (4ohm SVC)
or 2 x Kicker 10" L7's (4 ohm DVC)
If you're wondering about the 2 sets of subs... I got a deal on the Kicker's initially, but cashed in on FutureShop's $150/Infinity deal yesterday haha.
Since I've just about finished the box for the Kicker's I'll be running those first one way or another. Going for more of an SQ system though... so I can see myself switching to the Perfects in the near future. They'll be getting less power out of the amp, but I figure bigger cone... a little more efficient... Should be pretty close in volume to the Kicker's (both going in sealed boxes)?
Anyway! My main question is in regards to where I should cross over the mids. The CDT's have a 7" mid, so I'm hoping for some pretty decent mid-bass out of them. Specs say they'll run down to 50Hz... I imagine that's a little exagerated. I was thinking of setting the Alpine to 90Hz HPF, the Audison to 90Hz LPF. Thoughts? OR, since the amp's crossovers roll on/off (I believe), should I actually be overlapping the frequencies a little so there's no gaps? Say 85Hz HPF, 100Hz LP?
CDT's will be running mids in front doors, tweets in the A-pillars, the Alpine 6.5's will be running full-range off the deck in my rear doors. Everything is getting installed in an '01 Pathfinder.
Any advice appreciated - thanks!
Have a question for some of you gurus... I'm getting close to completing my install, then it's into the setup. Here's what I'm going to be running:
Headunit: Pioneer DEH-P670MP
Speakers:
CDT ES-07.1 Gold components - CDTAudio top quality audio components
Alpine Type-R 6.5" coaxials
Amps:
Alpine MRV-T757 (100W x 2 @ 4 ohm)
Audison LRx 1.400 (650Wx1 @ 2 ohm, 900Wx1 @ 1 ohm)
Subs:
2 x Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1's (4ohm SVC)
or 2 x Kicker 10" L7's (4 ohm DVC)
If you're wondering about the 2 sets of subs... I got a deal on the Kicker's initially, but cashed in on FutureShop's $150/Infinity deal yesterday haha.
Since I've just about finished the box for the Kicker's I'll be running those first one way or another. Going for more of an SQ system though... so I can see myself switching to the Perfects in the near future. They'll be getting less power out of the amp, but I figure bigger cone... a little more efficient... Should be pretty close in volume to the Kicker's (both going in sealed boxes)?
Anyway! My main question is in regards to where I should cross over the mids. The CDT's have a 7" mid, so I'm hoping for some pretty decent mid-bass out of them. Specs say they'll run down to 50Hz... I imagine that's a little exagerated. I was thinking of setting the Alpine to 90Hz HPF, the Audison to 90Hz LPF. Thoughts? OR, since the amp's crossovers roll on/off (I believe), should I actually be overlapping the frequencies a little so there's no gaps? Say 85Hz HPF, 100Hz LP?
CDT's will be running mids in front doors, tweets in the A-pillars, the Alpine 6.5's will be running full-range off the deck in my rear doors. Everything is getting installed in an '01 Pathfinder.
Any advice appreciated - thanks!
#2
A lot of vehicles have a hump in the midbass area due to the interior design of cars.I would start with a 80hz on the 7' and 80 on the sub.You should probably be able to even get a 63 on the mids,if the CDT are as good as they claim and cross the sub at 63 also.The more midbass up front the more it sound slike all the bass is coming from there.Use your ears though, you are the one who is going to be driving it.Good luck
#5
Mine is something similar to that..my sub is cross'd over at 50 LPF... components up front are 90, and rears are 80 all pass..sounds good to me i don't like goin up to 80hz on my sub..that's just personal preference..to each thier own
#6
First of BEAUTIFUL component set... I'm running the CDT ES-07's for midbass as well.
They'll handle a ton of juice and play well down to 50Hz (almost linear), however at that frequency the deadening and seperation of the rear wave from the front matter as much as the speaker does... also power handling will decrease a good bit. I dont think this will be a problem with your alpine amp though seeing how the ES-07's can take a solid 250wRMS all day crossed over higher.
The other thing is that your subs are LOUD, gotta love the 10" L7... if you like to drive them near clipping there is no way the 07's can keep up below 100Hz at same levels.
If you want a more "realistic" sound though, i'd aim for around 65Hz and with good deadening you won't have any dead zones and all bass will seem like it's coming from up front.
No real point in crossing over any lower as it won't affect stage much and the L7's play so great below this anyways.
If anything bring the crossover up a bit or EQ 2db in the 80Hz to level it out if you like to turn your subs up a good bit.
If you like listening to music with a very "bass heavy" response (ie. subs cranked) try to cross over your subs about 20Hz lower than your CDT's... this will gradually bring them down to the level of the mids and give a more proper crossover point.
It would be easy to visualize this with a drawing, but anyways i'm sure you can imagine it if you think of a frequency plot of the two.
Either way, beautiful setup enjoy it.
They'll handle a ton of juice and play well down to 50Hz (almost linear), however at that frequency the deadening and seperation of the rear wave from the front matter as much as the speaker does... also power handling will decrease a good bit. I dont think this will be a problem with your alpine amp though seeing how the ES-07's can take a solid 250wRMS all day crossed over higher.
The other thing is that your subs are LOUD, gotta love the 10" L7... if you like to drive them near clipping there is no way the 07's can keep up below 100Hz at same levels.
If you want a more "realistic" sound though, i'd aim for around 65Hz and with good deadening you won't have any dead zones and all bass will seem like it's coming from up front.
No real point in crossing over any lower as it won't affect stage much and the L7's play so great below this anyways.
If anything bring the crossover up a bit or EQ 2db in the 80Hz to level it out if you like to turn your subs up a good bit.
If you like listening to music with a very "bass heavy" response (ie. subs cranked) try to cross over your subs about 20Hz lower than your CDT's... this will gradually bring them down to the level of the mids and give a more proper crossover point.
It would be easy to visualize this with a drawing, but anyways i'm sure you can imagine it if you think of a frequency plot of the two.
Either way, beautiful setup enjoy it.
Last edited by Ross; 01-16-2007 at 11:37 AM.
#7
Just reread your post... don't be afraid of the 10" L7's for SQ... yes they do play very loud and many people "label" them as pure SPL subs... however if run in the right box they're great as SQ subs.
They use the same motor structure as the larger and higher Mms 12" model, I associate some of this with their transient response.
The 12" model though is a bit sloppy.
Alot of people in USACi and IASCA have won running L7's... I wish people would notice this as well.
They use the same motor structure as the larger and higher Mms 12" model, I associate some of this with their transient response.
The 12" model though is a bit sloppy.
Alot of people in USACi and IASCA have won running L7's... I wish people would notice this as well.
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