the white goo could be the thermal paste
or it could be compound that hold the caps steady
or could be the aluminum corroding from the electrolitic fluids leaking out

 

p.s. i would't recomend fixing it yourself unless you have money to burn
#1 alot of parts can be damaged with no visable signs

#2 if you don't replace all the parts that are damaged you risk the chance that you may be replacing all the part you just purchased and put in

 

Dont be hate`n

Isnt car audio a waste of money anyway

 

I see more as a learning experience than anything [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img] Who knows, maybe someday I'll be able to fix all the blown amps I come across which will save me tons of cash.

 

Hey
Thanx Icon.
You might also try www.e-sonic.com or www.activestores.com (there are stores in TO and Mississauga), they usually have a pretty good stock and some parts are cheaper than digikey as Seahag mentioned.
If the amp still powers up that means that there is hope for the power supply, the output stage has most likely packed it in though. If you are feeling adventurous remove the output transistors and check them with a diode test, should get reading above 0.4V in only two combinations (there are exceptions).
I believe they used IRFZ48 in the power supply but can't remeber if it was transistors or MOSFETS in the output stage.
I have found two MRV-T407's have also had bad SMT components in the crossover section when the output went, unsure if that carries through the whole MRV-x line.

Good luck either way