i have the mtx one
it got me -1.5 db when i turned it on
and it cost almost 300.00bucks
the rep wanted me to try it then left it i still have it in a box some where
maybe it was wired wrong

 

that's something I'd have to see to believe bro. If it does work then I'll take a few myself mang.

 

why do you want -1.5 db

 

Here's a quick rundown of the equipment in my setup...

The line driver takes the weak 1V signal from the single pair of RCAs on my deck, and outputs two 8V RCA pairs for the two amps.

The Bass Cube is only being used for its subsonic filter feature at the moment since the RF amp doesn't have one built in.
It is capable of boosting a selectable wide or narrow range of frequencies from 20-110Hz up to 15db, but I haven't used that part of it yet.
I plan to use it to enhance the overall sound of my box and flatten out the frequency response at some point.

The amp, sub and box are self explanatory.

And yes, at the moment I have a single run of 4AWG to the back, but the system distro and fuse blocks were bought with 0/1 in mind for a future upgrade.

 

Doing 2 of the big three is pointless. Electricity will only flow as well as the highest gauge of wire will allow. Think of it as a big pipeline with one piece in the middle that is half the size. Water would get backed up at the narrow point in the middle. Finish doing the Big 3 and check to see if it helps, then consider a high output alternator if you still have problems.

 

Just completed the third item of the big three, so we'll see if that does any good when it comes to the headlights dimming.

 

Ya gotta luv Yuli he cracks me up every time

 

Well it looks like adding the larger engine block to chassis ground connection helped a bit.
There is still some headlight dimming visible, but you have to look for it to see it more than before.
Going to be upgrading my amp wiring from 4 to 1/0 in a couple weeks, so we'll see if that changes anything.