Wavelength in a hatch...?
06-11-2003, 08:34 AM
#1
I can honestly admit that I'm not an spl dude... and this is actually my first real post in the spl forum. My new goal (settng sq aside - I guess I miss getting loud) is pump a car as hard as I can. Now... I need to know how to determine the wavelength in a hatchback. Perhaps I'm starting off on the wrong foot so just let me know if I am and what I should do first.
The subs, pointing up at the hatch window... do you add the distance between the cone and the window and the window with the front dash? Or is there another method? I'm just thinking about how the wave might refract off the window... that it might not add up properly. I dunno... suggestion and help?
The subs, pointing up at the hatch window... do you add the distance between the cone and the window and the window with the front dash? Or is there another method? I'm just thinking about how the wave might refract off the window... that it might not add up properly. I dunno... suggestion and help?
06-11-2003, 11:44 PM
#3
No... the box isn't in. Haven't made the box because I figured I would find out the optimum frequency to create a standing wave first... and then build a box tuned to that frequency. But from what I undestand... doing so in a hatch is different than having a wall setup, no?
06-27-2003, 05:11 PM
#8
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 24
hey, I got a 1990 Golf, I'm running a 15" Orion hcca on a Power Acoustik 3000D, I still have a back seat, and my box right now is tuned to about 50 cycles, I hit 149.3 at a Db drag last sunday. I'm getting another box made so that I can enter street 1-2, becuz right now my box is too tall, but it's going to have the same setup, sub facing roof, and the port along the bottom of the box facing the rear, as it sits it's about 1.5"s from the backseat (because my amp is strapped to the back), and about 3-4"s from the hatch, have about an inch away from the wheel wells on either side. If u haven't already, rip out all the vinal in the rear, and until the car gets worked in the only thing that will rattle (even without dynamat/brownbread) is your rear wiper which is easy to dispose of. The brake light in the window will start to rattle soon, so if u have no need for it, dispose of it too.
of course, my old box had two 4 inch ports, and sub facing the rear, and it hit best around 45 cycles, but what seems to work is...anything for those cars. get the air space specs for your sub and build your box so it fits in the car the way you want it too.
good luck
of course, my old box had two 4 inch ports, and sub facing the rear, and it hit best around 45 cycles, but what seems to work is...anything for those cars. get the air space specs for your sub and build your box so it fits in the car the way you want it too.
good luck
07-03-2003, 12:40 AM
#9
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 15
Hmm, i'm still new to car audio, but what do you mean by calculating the wavelength of a hatchback? as in the optimum wavelength of the sound?
wouldn't you want to have as high of a resonance frequency as possible?
so what are you asking? how to calculate the distance at which the SPL meter would experience constructive interference from the sound waves?
wouldn't you want to have as high of a resonance frequency as possible?
so what are you asking? how to calculate the distance at which the SPL meter would experience constructive interference from the sound waves?
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