PEI330Ci

I know of one person right now building a really high end car system using 2 XXK 4150s. He had a lot of options avaiblable, and he chose these.

Yes, you can bridge channels on the 4150,(puts out just over 300 watts) but you have to keep the impedence above 4 ohms.

Here is my little sicko idea for my own setup.

Tweeter- XXK 2100
Midrange- VRx2.400
Midbass- XXK 4150 (Bridged)
Subs- VRx1.500

For the money, I would go with a 2100 instead of a 2050. It cost marginally more and puts out double the power.

Adam

Brandon

iTrader: (1)

Hehe, I think I know the guy you're talking about.

I want to run 2 Focal Access 12's.

There SVC 4ohm so I'll run them parallel to get 8ohms or if I can get my hands on an accumatch I'll load the amp to around 4 ohms.

Your system idea sounds sweet man....you gonna use the 165W set with that?

Rob

iTrader: (2)

I just bought an audison amp today.. sounds amazing

[ April 08, 2004, 08:43 PM: Message edited by: Rob ]

Brandon

iTrader: (1)

You got the LRx....one step up from the SRx.

Nice amp...where'd you get that?

Rob

iTrader: (2)

Got it from Number 1 sound on College st + Dovercourt. They are a really nice shop ! Freindliest people !
I know them real well.. If you wanna meet up, I can get you a really good deal on these amps..

PM Me or Msn me.. rob89m3@hotmail.com

[ April 08, 2004, 09:42 PM: Message edited by: Rob ]

PEI330Ci

Yes I'm using the Utopia 165W3 kit. I'm struggling a bit with the tweeters though. The DLS UR-1 tweeter is supposed to be a bit more laid back than the TN-51, so I'm going to try one of those soon.

Those Focal 5WS mini-subs are pretty awesome pieces. But, MSRP on them is $344 each, and you would need 2 per side to match the cone area of a 6.5". After my struggles with my 3 way kit, I'd say dropping down to a 2 way front stage with just the 165K2 kit will save you a lot of headaches. It would cost less to amplify as well. If you are considering running the XXK 5150, I'm guess that SPL is not your prime concern. So dropping the "mini-sub" idea won't hurt you too much.

Back to the amps. Here is how I'd power your driver selection.

Tweeters and midranges: XXK 4150 (Active X.O.)

http://www.arcaudio.com/arc/navigation/xxk4150prodp.htm

Subs: XXK 2500

For Sale here:
http://www.canadiancaraudio.com/ubb/...c;f=2;t=004947

Comments: I'm currently using the XXK 4150 to run my mids and tweeters, it's a very clean amp. This amp will play VERY loud, so don't let the conservative rating fool you. When I had my system on the RTA, I accidently was pushing my front stage above 115 Db with this amp.

Keep it simple.

Dereck, you are right. I didn't want to get into the theory though. There would probably be a fluery of "how can that be" questions that I'm not smart enough to answer.

Adam

[ April 09, 2004, 12:34 AM: Message edited by: PEI330Ci ]

PEI330Ci

Ok guys, I did a little digging.

All you want to know about Class A

http://sound.westhost.com/class-a.htm

Adam

lemonlime

Thanks for the link Adam, a great read..

Brian C

I aggree with Tom, the product alone does not make a great system. I on the other hand did not do anything fancy in my VW golf. I properly installed a pair of 165V2 Polyglass Focals in the front factory locations using the Cascade Speaker Kit 2 which includes the Deflex pads, (awesome return for the dollar), and an SB27V2, (a premade sub box with a 27V2 polyglass)run off the Audison SRX3. I as are many other people am stunned with the holographic picture I get. I previously had a more expensive system consisting of a major brand name and the difference is audible even to an untrained ear. The Audison SRX3 gives a much more open stage with a fair bit more detail. Agter having the system in my car for over a year now, I still get goosebumps when I put in a new CD.