Can this be useful in a car?
09-22-2004, 05:43 PM
#1
B&W uses a technology for mounting thier drivers called decoupling....Could this be useful in a car set-up? Please don't make me explain decoupling.....
http://www.bwspeakers.com/index.cfm/...7F00D0B7473B37
http://www.bwspeakers.com/index.cfm/...7F00D0B7473B37
09-22-2004, 06:58 PM
#4
Yankee
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,599
We use foam, putty, silicone (whatever.... to seal the driver to the cabinet to prevent air leaks around a driver) that is decoupling... methinks there is some marketing afoot.
BTW do you want the resonances high or low Freq? seems that would depend on the freq range of the cabinet
OH YEAH! ....WITH THIS POST....etc etc etc.... golden toque
[ September 23, 2004, 04:46 PM: Message edited by: JohnVroom ]
BTW do you want the resonances high or low Freq? seems that would depend on the freq range of the cabinet
OH YEAH! ....WITH THIS POST....etc etc etc.... golden toque
[ September 23, 2004, 04:46 PM: Message edited by: JohnVroom ]
09-22-2004, 08:49 PM
#5
It can help to eliminate resonances of panels, etc. that the speaker would be normally coupled to by way of direct contact, screws, etc. and has been done but it still doesn't relieve you of properly dampening the cabinet (such as a door) the speaker is going into.
09-22-2004, 09:26 PM
#6
Wow... thats a lot of marketing...
Me thinks a regular speaker gasket does fine for sealing and decoupling at the same time...
also if your driver is mounted securly to a enclose with suitable rigidity and density... you shouldn't have a problem in the first place...
Me thinks a regular speaker gasket does fine for sealing and decoupling at the same time...
also if your driver is mounted securly to a enclose with suitable rigidity and density... you shouldn't have a problem in the first place...
09-23-2004, 10:23 AM
#8
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,120
Not marketing...physics!
The key here is to keep the cabinet from resonating so all you hear is the driver...it can still be solidly mounted and acoustically de-coupled at the same time.
De-coupling is a rarely talked about idea, but rest assured all the top guys Eldridge, Biggs etc are using this...but just try and find out exactly what their big secret is b/c they won't even tell each other... and why should they if it's the difference between winning & losing
So if anyone has some good ideas (that you're willing to share!) let's hear 'em..
The key here is to keep the cabinet from resonating so all you hear is the driver...it can still be solidly mounted and acoustically de-coupled at the same time.
De-coupling is a rarely talked about idea, but rest assured all the top guys Eldridge, Biggs etc are using this...but just try and find out exactly what their big secret is b/c they won't even tell each other... and why should they if it's the difference between winning & losing
So if anyone has some good ideas (that you're willing to share!) let's hear 'em..
09-23-2004, 11:49 AM
#9
I don't think the hard part is finding the material to use between the driver and the enclosure, but rather how do you secure the driver to the material and the material to the enclousure in a solid way so that the driver and enclosure have no contact at all (ie. screws)?
09-23-2004, 01:39 PM
#10
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,120
^^True Dat^^....here's something to ponder...
how about rather than worrying about the solidness of the mounting the driver to the baffle....instead decouple the baffle from the rest of the enclosure, and use a strong thick non-resonant baffle to limit the baffle itself from resonating
how about rather than worrying about the solidness of the mounting the driver to the baffle....instead decouple the baffle from the rest of the enclosure, and use a strong thick non-resonant baffle to limit the baffle itself from resonating
