Ford Escape 2011 - SQ Install
11-20-2010, 10:03 AM
#51
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 230
I was tempted... But common-sense prevailed. The door connection is a solid connection block, not just a rubber tube. You actually need to VERY carefully drill holes through the wire block, with maybe 1/64" to spare at most.
As for cross-overs, those foam block things have a lot of room on top, one could easily dump them there, though that would involve ripping the panels off to adjust, etc. I didn't take the panels off more than once, they're still off actually.
Why half-*** stuff when all it costs you is a little more time to do it right?
As for cross-overs, those foam block things have a lot of room on top, one could easily dump them there, though that would involve ripping the panels off to adjust, etc. I didn't take the panels off more than once, they're still off actually.
Why half-*** stuff when all it costs you is a little more time to do it right?
03-08-2011, 02:02 PM
#53
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 1
Interested in fabricating another fiberglass sub enclosure?
Been a busy week, just haven't had time to spend on the install. Good news is the fiberglass sub mold is done and the volume is right on the money. By going with fiberglass and having it made to fit the wet-trunk, I gained a significant amount of volume.
When the computer designed the mold, my pal gave me the volume numbers before he CNC'd the positive, I had to confirm the volume for myself. I won't doubt him again!
When the computer designed the mold, my pal gave me the volume numbers before he CNC'd the positive, I had to confirm the volume for myself. I won't doubt him again!
I have seen yours and a few others on escape forums and that's what I want to do. A complete stealth install in my escape. Hidden, clean and professional.
I have a 2011 Ford Escape Sport XLT with sync, factory stereo, no nav or sub and amp. I have replaced the door speakers and added a 4 channel Kenwood 6404 and a Kicker DX500 that I want to use to run a single Punch Stage 3 12" shallow mount sub inside an enclosure. Any ideas? Did you use a relay run to a fuse box to power up the amps?
Thanks
Did it take you a long time? Do you still have all the dimensions and materials list? Would you consider making me one? I'm in Mississauga. Yours looks amazing.
03-08-2011, 03:23 PM
#54
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 26
It looks like you do great fiberglass work (everything else looks good too). If you want to seal the holes in the doors to get the increased midbass response, I would suggest doing it with fiberglass. It isn't that hard really, use some painters tape to tape the holes (make sure it taped tightly with no sagging), "paint" resin on the tape, stick your fiberglass cloth/mat to it, and add a couple of layers. When you go to attach it to the car, you can either use self-tapping screw, silicon, or both. If you wanted to make it easily removable, you could probably use a bead of butyl rope caulk and tape it down around the edges with a high-performance duct tape.
It really is a clean looking install so far though, and I love the method of running the wires under the car and making sure they are properly protected when doing so.
It really is a clean looking install so far though, and I love the method of running the wires under the car and making sure they are properly protected when doing so.
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