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front stage (Mpyre 65M, CSS FR125SR?, tweeter?)

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Old 12-28-2008, 03:35 AM
  #11  
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^^ yeh they suck, lol

I wanted lots and lots of midbass..but this is

perhaps I should have went with another midbass driver
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Old 12-28-2008, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by sweetlikechutny
^^ yeh they suck, lol

I wanted lots and lots of midbass..but this is

perhaps I should have went with another midbass driver
I thought we were talking about the midrange not midbass. I am confused. Oh, well. I prolly dont read carefully enough. Maybe its easier to dump that crap you have now, cause obviously they dont work well. Mpyre what - never even heard of them. For 2-ways, you can still go all Seas - like Seas Neo for the tweet, and Seas Excel for the mid. Not sure if you want to go active with amps or processor, or just passive with some sort of crossover network. Neo can be crossed as low as 2500hz, but I would not cross it lower, and Seas mid can prolly go up to 4-5khz without issues. Not sure if you can find a 4-ohm Excel though, so thats why I thought active is a better solution with this particular combo. I dont know, if I am helpful here, I am feeling pretty useless, and do not know where I am going with this, but thanks for listening, and I hope I am shedding some sort of light in your direction There are so many good speakers out there, and bargains to be had.

Last edited by Sasha; 12-28-2008 at 04:59 AM.
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Old 12-28-2008, 05:04 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by sweetlikechutny
I also have a set of Focal K2P tweeters from the 5.25" component set. How low can those extend?
Depending on what K2P set they have diff tweeters. But even the TN52 doesnt like to play low. I would not cross it lower than 3.5-4khz. You need another mid man, which plays higher. Only freakin' horns can go that low to work with your mids. It seems they are dedicated midbass drivers, and are not designed to play high due to physical properties of the material they are made from. Think and heavy cones play good midbass, but higher freqs need the material that resonates faster, so lighter material is used, thus making is useless in midbass region, and most 2-way system have drivers that play well throughout the necessary range, but dont do excellent at either. So, if you want to keep the Mpyres, might as well go 3-way. Just get another 3" dedicated midrange, and any tweeter out there may work in this set-up, cause it may not need to play low anymore. Seas Neo will still work, as it is an excellent tweeter, or LPG like NA model will work as well as it is best in 3-ways, but does not like to play low, or a Vifa XT19 will work well, as the XT25 does not have as great off-axis response.

Last edited by Sasha; 12-28-2008 at 05:12 AM.
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Old 12-28-2008, 05:18 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by sweetlikechutny
^^ yeh they suck, lol

I wanted lots and lots of midbass..but this is

perhaps I should have went with another midbass driver
I am sure you can make them work. Proper door deadening, proper crossing, proper amp adjustments and power. Did you even break them in? They will sound a million times better after a while.

And that CSS FR125SR speaker you plan on using is listed as 7 ohms on the CSS site, if I am not mistaken, so it looks like you have to go active, or make your own crossovers, will you do that, or someone else? Cause passives have to be built for certain speaker impedance to have them work properly. If you're going with active crossing, then impedance is not such a huge factor. Plus this midrange does not appear to be sensitive at around 86db is it, so you're better off going active so you can set everything properly. And whats with the magnet shield in car audio, hopefully it comes off easily. This whole thing is beginning to sound complicated.

Last edited by Sasha; 12-28-2008 at 05:27 AM.
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Old 12-28-2008, 10:33 AM
  #15  
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just a side note and shameless plug, I have a minty pair of Seas Neos for $60 if you go that route.
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Old 12-28-2008, 11:17 AM
  #16  
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Mpyre Audio 65M
Patented XBL^2 Motor
Fs: 35 Hz
Qms: 2.8
Qes: 0.48
Qts: 0.41
Vas: 23 liters
Re: 3.50 Ohms
Le: .005 mH
BL: 6.13 Mms: 23 grams
Sd: 140 cm^2
Cms: 0.5 mm/N
XMAX: 13mm
XMECH: 15mm

Depth: 3 1/2"
Pwr Handling: 150WRMS
Single 4 Ohm Voice Coil
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Old 12-28-2008, 01:28 PM
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just as a note. I have a dedicated amp for the midbass and one for the tweeter or tweeter/midrange if I decide to go that route.

I would like to keep it 2 way though, can anyone recommend a mid with crazy midbass and able to extend to around 4k?
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Old 12-28-2008, 01:29 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Sasha
I am sure you can make them work. Proper door deadening, proper crossing, proper amp adjustments and power. Did you even break them in? They will sound a million times better after a while.

And that CSS FR125SR speaker you plan on using is listed as 7 ohms on the CSS site, if I am not mistaken, so it looks like you have to go active, or make your own crossovers, will you do that, or someone else? Cause passives have to be built for certain speaker impedance to have them work properly. If you're going with active crossing, then impedance is not such a huge factor. Plus this midrange does not appear to be sensitive at around 86db is it, so you're better off going active so you can set everything properly. And whats with the magnet shield in car audio, hopefully it comes off easily. This whole thing is beginning to sound complicated.
THe Mpyres are a caraudio version of the adire extremis or CSS SD7
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Old 12-28-2008, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by MTT
just a side note and shameless plug, I have a minty pair of Seas Neos for $60 if you go that route.
and your local, sweet
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Old 12-28-2008, 02:44 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by sweetlikechutny
THe Mpyres are a caraudio version of the adire extremis or CSS SD7

Gotya. I know that speaker. Very good speaker, and def a midbass only for a 3-way set-up. Might as well get the Seas Neo tweeters, they will work excellent in any set-up. As for the mids, and as you're going active, why not keep everything Seas, and you can cross this combo at 2500hz. And if you want something a bit cheaper Dayton and Vifa mids will work. Lotsa speakers to choose from. Just a few here.

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=149&products_id= 633

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=149&products_id= 1466

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=149&products_id= 823

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=149&products_id= 818
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