Going loud wat more bass less treble
Thread Starter
50 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 375
i have done the removale of the door pannel, what a pain in the azz that is on these h2 tegs, stupid things just will not let go! Anyhow my main concern was the actual mount for the speakers. My car has a plastic circle speaker mount that screws onto the door itself.... That there i dunno what id do with it.....
Guest
Posts: n/a
It doesn't have to be closed on the back just make some circles that bolt to the door, then bolt the speaker to that. They don't even have to be circles.
Here are some pics of a baffle I made for a Cavalier that normally has 4x6 speakers in a plastic baffle.
Here you can see the factory opening after the stock speaker and plastic baffle were removed. The speaker baffle I made is in the bottom right.
Here is the baffle bolted to the door. I made it pretty big to make sure there was as little resonance as possible. I sealed it to the door with a couple strips of 3M strip caulk. The speakers are sealed to the baffle with some foam tape. The face of the baffle was going to be slightly visable through the factory grille so I put some brushed aluminium laminate over the face of it.
Here are some pics of a baffle I made for a Cavalier that normally has 4x6 speakers in a plastic baffle.
Here you can see the factory opening after the stock speaker and plastic baffle were removed. The speaker baffle I made is in the bottom right.
Here is the baffle bolted to the door. I made it pretty big to make sure there was as little resonance as possible. I sealed it to the door with a couple strips of 3M strip caulk. The speakers are sealed to the baffle with some foam tape. The face of the baffle was going to be slightly visable through the factory grille so I put some brushed aluminium laminate over the face of it.
Thread Starter
50 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 375
Hmm yea id haveta look into it, I woulder what i could use to close in behind the speaker, hmmm ill haveta think bout that. What type of wood did u use? My plane was to use some old MDF i have around here but then again I think is 1" thick and that may be too thick for my pannels
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,120
Hey, I think you're on the wrong track....you DON'T have to enclose behind the speaker with wood. All you need to do as Derek did in his photos is make sure the entire door is a completely sealed enclosure...the door becomes the box!!
So all you really need to do is make the speaker rings or baffles like Derek did, and then seal the door with sound deadening mat (the chrome stuff on the entire door). The ring or baffle can be mounted in behind on top of the door metal, it's not actually a sealed box made of wood. That's why this is so EASY to do.
And why does it work?? You probably think because home speakers of that size need a small sealed box that car speakers will be the same....not so!
Car speakers are specifically (most of them) designed to work in large cavities like doors or trunks as long as the cavity/enclosure is sealed and isolated from the area the speaker is playing into.
If this still doesn't sound easy to you I'd suggest getting some knowledgable help with it.
Good luck!
If you do it like derek showed you you will have GREAT results. Remember, all you are trying to do is to isolate the area behind the speaker from the area in front of the speaker. Otherwise you will get cancelation, and thus poor mid bass response.
[ July 26, 2004, 10:22 AM: Message edited by: islandphile ]
So all you really need to do is make the speaker rings or baffles like Derek did, and then seal the door with sound deadening mat (the chrome stuff on the entire door). The ring or baffle can be mounted in behind on top of the door metal, it's not actually a sealed box made of wood. That's why this is so EASY to do.
And why does it work?? You probably think because home speakers of that size need a small sealed box that car speakers will be the same....not so!
Car speakers are specifically (most of them) designed to work in large cavities like doors or trunks as long as the cavity/enclosure is sealed and isolated from the area the speaker is playing into.
If this still doesn't sound easy to you I'd suggest getting some knowledgable help with it.
Good luck!
If you do it like derek showed you you will have GREAT results. Remember, all you are trying to do is to isolate the area behind the speaker from the area in front of the speaker. Otherwise you will get cancelation, and thus poor mid bass response.
[ July 26, 2004, 10:22 AM: Message edited by: islandphile ]
