Njord, sorry no cam avaialble as I've left it at my friend place. It is a relatively easy task. Take two black cans of expanding foam "Good Stuff" - they are for bigger gaps/holes and spray in them. Before you do that consider few things:

1. The foam does expand. You might put some pressure on things you do not want to put pressure on. Some sort of wiring/switches whatever it might be. In my case it was tiny trunk light lid. The expanding foam can easily pull a tiny wire or a switch.
2. The dried foam is hard to remove. If you buried wiring/switches you might have a problem later with replacing or even running new cables in the trunk through the holes which were available before the foam party :-)
3. Important - wear gloves and protect eyes. This foam is the ugliest think I've ever worked with, with the exception of my boss :-)
4. So following the above - have fun and fill up as many holes as possible !!! One TIP here. If you have a powerful flashlight, wait until dark outside and put it on the rear deck - you go in the trunk and fill the gaps you see the light is coming from first. As a lot of holes are not air-space-connected between trunk/cabin. But I filled them anyway :-)
5. Speakers surroundings was a tricky part - which I would never attempt again. The job was nicely done and speakers now are tightly insulated by the foam, but having razor sharp utility knife cutting excessive well expanded foam within few mils of the woofer surface - is wrong. For that reason I am not sharing ideas in this particular regard - as I can blaim only myself for poor planning in a first place. I reiterate - do not do it the way I've done it. (If u drive Impala - I can share ideas how to do it differently, if u drive another make you will have to deal with accordingly)
6. Wait for few hours and trim with the utility knife.

Bottom line:
1. 15 bucks spent on foam
2. Black jacket is ruined with the sticky foam :-(
3. Will take another few days to get this sticky shXt from my hands :-(
4. Good luck with trying to remove rear deck now :-(
But most importantly:
5. The sound in general and bass deepness in particular does worth the effort. For 15 bucks and 1 1/2 hour of - in my personal opinion you are getting obviously better sound as much as you could reasonably expect out of 6*9s.

Will I do it again? Yes.
Will I recomend to do it? Yes.

Thanks to all who shared ideas here

:-)

 

curious to know exactly what you did with "5. Speakers surroundings was a tricky part"
Please tell me you didn't foam around the basket of the speaker, sealing the back of the cone off from the rest of the trunk...
If it's just around where the speaker is mounted (I dont know why there would be gaps here, i'm talking about the actual "cutout" of the mounting hole) then why not use a product easier to apply and more dense, like clay?
Anyway, just wondering what ya did

 

Yeah it can be a little messy the first few times you use that "stuff", but it's worth it! Rear fill ftw!!

 

Aussie1978
Well, too bad I have no camera to make pics avaialble....


Please tell me you didn't foam around the basket of the speaker, sealing the back of the cone off from the rest of the trunk... No, I did not. The rear surface of the speakers is pumping air in the trunk, they are not enclosed from the back/underneath.

1. Speakers are sitting on the rigid plastic ring. Plastic ring is sitting on the vehicle body/metal. There are no problems here as it perfect fit. No gaps to insulate.
2. When I was putting the rear deck back on top of the mounted speakers I took a look to see if it all fits. I found that the rear deck opening does not exactly match the speakers outter edge shape. And yes this is replacement 6*9 to new 6*9. Why? I dont know. It is almost like the woofer rubber band is 6*9 but the rear deck opening is 5 1/2 * 8 1/2 :-(
3.Rear deck opening edges were almost touching the surrounding rubber band of the woofer. If woofer pumps - the edges would inevitably get in contact with the rear deck openings. You know what friction will do.
4. For this reason the rear deck openings curve was trimmed/widened to ensure there is no contact between rubber band edge and rear deck per se.
5. Now if have 1/2 inch gaps.
6. Now we have to foam them

Some updates here: Now with the day light I did reevaluate the "project". No need to use sharp knife. The foam could be gently removed by your hands, no harm for the woofer.

I think the challenges explained above is my praticular case with my particular make. However the general approach might be used in insulation or improving insulation for other makes.

And yes, yes, yes - the bass response is much greater. Much.

Clay - is not expnading and most likely very vulnerable to heat and direct sun light. I assume it would crack/fall apart eventualy, while the foam is realy-realy tight, sticky and fills all gaps including those you do not see.

 

the fronts are putting out 75% of the bass as they are 75% closer to you

Who said I don't have a driver? :-)