Kickpanel help at modifying and air space needed
06-24-2008, 05:59 PM
#1
Kickpanel help at modifying and air space needed
My kick panels currently house 4" and 1" focals and I'd like to move them up to the dash. They are made with the stock plastic panels, fiberglass and MDF.
My question is can I re-used parts of the fiberglass mold. The section I'd like to use again the lower (touching floor) and the fibreglass attached to the plastic mold. Then grind and cut off the section no longer needed and start the process over again!
How much air space will be needed?
link to the driver specs: http://www.focal-america.com/extras/...r/W165kbex.pdf
Thanks
Julian
My question is can I re-used parts of the fiberglass mold. The section I'd like to use again the lower (touching floor) and the fibreglass attached to the plastic mold. Then grind and cut off the section no longer needed and start the process over again!
How much air space will be needed?
link to the driver specs: http://www.focal-america.com/extras/...r/W165kbex.pdf
Thanks
Julian
Last edited by avidedtr; 06-24-2008 at 06:05 PM.
06-24-2008, 06:45 PM
#3
Gumby,
Thanks for the advise -Can I still use the existing fiberglass??? - The originals were made too big and the amount of glass that will be removed is the same that I would have to redo - retro fit is allowed in this case!
I have a section on the dash (a pillars) perfect for the 4 & 1 - Plus I'm finding the imaging too low for my tastes. The 6.5" is ok in the doors - I want to try something new!
Jules
Thanks for the advise -Can I still use the existing fiberglass??? - The originals were made too big and the amount of glass that will be removed is the same that I would have to redo - retro fit is allowed in this case!
I have a section on the dash (a pillars) perfect for the 4 & 1 - Plus I'm finding the imaging too low for my tastes. The 6.5" is ok in the doors - I want to try something new!
Jules
Last edited by avidedtr; 06-24-2008 at 06:47 PM.
06-24-2008, 08:01 PM
#5
what are the crossover points for the Midrange, and tweeter? My suggestion would be to keep your midrange down low, the 6.5 in the door, and try putting you tweeters in the a pillars about 4 inches up, firing directly at each other. as long as you tweeters are play 4.5-5 k and up this will increase you stage height dramaticly. I'm just trying to save you some work cause it sounds like you have lots into you kick pods already. Also pillar mids can be very tricky, and will sound like crap if not done just right. IMO.. just try using some double sided tape to attach you tweets to the pillars, you may even want to play with the aiming, but I think moving them up on the pillars will help you a lot.
what kind of car are you installing in?? you could also post some pics so i can get a better idea.
what kind of car are you installing in?? you could also post some pics so i can get a better idea.
06-24-2008, 09:16 PM
#6
Gumby -
I'm running passive w/ an Audison Lrx 2.4. The 6.5", 4" and 1" off the Focal xovers The 6.5" starts at 63hz @ 24db and cuts off at 200 @ 18db, the 4" starts at 200hz @ 18db and whatever the factory setting for the TN52 ( can't recall ). I love the snap and lows from the 6.5's that are in the door, however the image is knee level. My sub should be arriving tomorrow its a 33KX in a sealed 1.71 box ( hopefully going ported soon ) I had the 27 kx crossed off at 63 at 24db.
I understand the 4" & 1" is going to require some work it probably won't be a hard as these kicks sound! I moved the tweeter last year and didn't like the driver separation.
Before I go and hack up the current kicks - I'll fab up some temp mounts for the dash and see how I like the staging.
The car is a 2007 Honda Fit - Can't go active I'd like to but to costly for a daily driver!
I'm running passive w/ an Audison Lrx 2.4. The 6.5", 4" and 1" off the Focal xovers The 6.5" starts at 63hz @ 24db and cuts off at 200 @ 18db, the 4" starts at 200hz @ 18db and whatever the factory setting for the TN52 ( can't recall ). I love the snap and lows from the 6.5's that are in the door, however the image is knee level. My sub should be arriving tomorrow its a 33KX in a sealed 1.71 box ( hopefully going ported soon ) I had the 27 kx crossed off at 63 at 24db.
I understand the 4" & 1" is going to require some work it probably won't be a hard as these kicks sound! I moved the tweeter last year and didn't like the driver separation.
Before I go and hack up the current kicks - I'll fab up some temp mounts for the dash and see how I like the staging.
The car is a 2007 Honda Fit - Can't go active I'd like to but to costly for a daily driver!
06-25-2008, 01:52 AM
#7
ok, several things come to mind here..
1) Those kicks are to nice to be cutting at all, although I think that with that set up the stage width would suffer drastically, and the fact that IMO the tweeter is in the wrong location... put them on ebay, or something to fund towards a future considerations that will be discussed here in a moment.
2) Because you are passive you are very limited, I would suspect that if the stage is still falling to the floor the passives are set to like 2.5-3k, running active will cure this as you car adjust to settings that work for you particular car/install.
3) I know you don't want to hear this, but running active with a pillar mids in going to be very hard to get to sound right. you need time alignment, and a way to properly attenuate you left side speakers so that all the music does not appear to come from the left side.
4) for 4-500 hundred dollars a Clarion DRZ 9255 can be had "USED" which gives you full active processing, T/A, eqing, ect very high Quality unit with a copper chassis, IMO this with playing with the tweeter placement.
5) when playing with the tweeters, and after getting a better stage, you may also want to wrap the 4 in some towels on the floor, keep them as close to the factory kickpanels, and start with them completly off axis, I think that this is part of you problem as well. along with the fact the the tweeter should be on the bottom of the kicks instead of the top, I would suspect that is the biggest reason why your soundstage is rainbowed.
6) so to sum it up if you sell your eclipse, and your kickpods you would be close to paying much out of your pocket, this unit will put your system to a completly new level!
heres a link... Clarion Canada | DRZ9255
1) Those kicks are to nice to be cutting at all, although I think that with that set up the stage width would suffer drastically, and the fact that IMO the tweeter is in the wrong location... put them on ebay, or something to fund towards a future considerations that will be discussed here in a moment.
2) Because you are passive you are very limited, I would suspect that if the stage is still falling to the floor the passives are set to like 2.5-3k, running active will cure this as you car adjust to settings that work for you particular car/install.
3) I know you don't want to hear this, but running active with a pillar mids in going to be very hard to get to sound right. you need time alignment, and a way to properly attenuate you left side speakers so that all the music does not appear to come from the left side.
4) for 4-500 hundred dollars a Clarion DRZ 9255 can be had "USED" which gives you full active processing, T/A, eqing, ect very high Quality unit with a copper chassis, IMO this with playing with the tweeter placement.
5) when playing with the tweeters, and after getting a better stage, you may also want to wrap the 4 in some towels on the floor, keep them as close to the factory kickpanels, and start with them completly off axis, I think that this is part of you problem as well. along with the fact the the tweeter should be on the bottom of the kicks instead of the top, I would suspect that is the biggest reason why your soundstage is rainbowed.
6) so to sum it up if you sell your eclipse, and your kickpods you would be close to paying much out of your pocket, this unit will put your system to a completly new level!
heres a link... Clarion Canada | DRZ9255
06-25-2008, 10:17 AM
#9
ok, several things come to mind here..
1) Those kicks are to nice to be cutting at all, although I think that with that set up the stage width would suffer drastically, and the fact that IMO the tweeter is in the wrong location... put them on ebay, or something to fund towards a future considerations that will be discussed here in a moment.
2) Because you are passive you are very limited, I would suspect that if the stage is still falling to the floor the passives are set to like 2.5-3k, running active will cure this as you car adjust to settings that work for you particular car/install.
3) I know you don't want to hear this, but running active with a pillar mids in going to be very hard to get to sound right. you need time alignment, and a way to properly attenuate you left side speakers so that all the music does not appear to come from the left side.
4) for 4-500 hundred dollars a Clarion DRZ 9255 can be had "USED" which gives you full active processing, T/A, eqing, ect very high Quality unit with a copper chassis, IMO this with playing with the tweeter placement.
1) Those kicks are to nice to be cutting at all, although I think that with that set up the stage width would suffer drastically, and the fact that IMO the tweeter is in the wrong location... put them on ebay, or something to fund towards a future considerations that will be discussed here in a moment.
2) Because you are passive you are very limited, I would suspect that if the stage is still falling to the floor the passives are set to like 2.5-3k, running active will cure this as you car adjust to settings that work for you particular car/install.
3) I know you don't want to hear this, but running active with a pillar mids in going to be very hard to get to sound right. you need time alignment, and a way to properly attenuate you left side speakers so that all the music does not appear to come from the left side.
4) for 4-500 hundred dollars a Clarion DRZ 9255 can be had "USED" which gives you full active processing, T/A, eqing, ect very high Quality unit with a copper chassis, IMO this with playing with the tweeter placement.
Thanks for your in depth response - the reason the kicks sound bad is because the tweeter is on axis and I have to reverse the phase to make it sound more direct. Plus I need a project for the summer eve's and I want to create something myself this time around!
I have an old set of JBL GTi (08's series I think) and temporarily put them in the current Focal location and I found the same problem - My leg keep dampening/muffling the tweeting and bouncing the imaging.
I don't have the money (just bought my 2nd house) for 2 more Audison 2.4LRx amp or a 6 channel Audison. Plus my Eclispe CD7100 does 3 way/Time alignment 11 band in 3 way EQ plus 24db Xover.I has a few more bells and whistles then the Clarion then just a standalone CD player without MP3 or IPOD controls.
I'm going to try the 4 & 1 up on the dash today and see the results. I'm doing this for myself, my tastes and I don't really need the best of the best for HU, amps, and speakers. Been there done that long ago and "to me" the results are the same!
5) when playing with the tweeters, and after getting a better stage, you may also want to wrap the 4 in some towels on the floor, keep them as close to the factory kickpanels, and start with them completly off axis, I think that this is part of you problem as well. along with the fact the the tweeter should be on the bottom of the kicks instead of the top, I would suspect that is the biggest reason why your soundstage is rainbowed.
6) so to sum it up if you sell your eclipse, and your kickpods you would be close to paying much out of your pocket, this unit will put your system to a completly new level!
6) so to sum it up if you sell your eclipse, and your kickpods you would be close to paying much out of your pocket, this unit will put your system to a completly new level!
heres a link... Clarion Canada | DRZ9255
Very classy deck - not my cup of tea - but if I were going full active, and serious SQ I wold definitely consider it.
Very classy deck - not my cup of tea - but if I were going full active, and serious SQ I wold definitely consider it.
Thanks for your assistance Gumby. If you ever want to meet up to critique my system. I'd be more then happy to meet up one day!
Best Regards,
Jules
06-25-2008, 02:55 PM
#10
Todays Progress....Stage is quite nice and I don't have to attenuate the passenger side to -4. Time corrected about 1.2ms and it's pretty balanced - I'll try this for a week and see how it goes!
