Mid Bass Help --- 80Hz to 200Hz
Thread Starter
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 16
Originally Posted by Creamedweasel
Ok without pictures, imagine a wave of water. its one constant flow, 1m tall at peaks, 1m down at the valleys. 1m is as far as we are going to let this example move, and pretend it represents the maximum movement your sub can move and your amp can put out. If it doesn't touch our invisible barrier of 1m when it's at it's highest and lowest, we get one nice smooth movement out of our sub, in and out. The amp cycles up, then cycles back down, with no problem. If we turn up the gain, we are pushing this wave to try and work beyond the 1m limit. but what happens is that we are really chopping off the top and bottom of the wave, leaving a flat, possibly 1 second long sections of full power. This will make your amp try to hold that peak of it's cycle for much longer than a nice wave, as well as try to hold your sub in and out during this stage. This is what ruins them from the best of my knowledge. Google it if you aren't sure. I hope I'm correct but then again it's 9:30am and I am hungover. Da Bears.
As for my midrange in my dooes they do to 500Hz approx comfortabally so not too good. Tthey are powed on their own amp. the car is deadened with B-Quiet
But back to my question would i be better off with 2 Kicker Midbass 6" speakers powered from an amp, or 1 8" or 10" sub powered around 300W or so in a sealed box?
Originally Posted by Kaiser
But back to my question would i be better off with 2 Kicker Midbass 6" speakers powered from an amp, or 1 8" or 10" sub powered around 300W or so in a sealed box?
However, I wasn't too impressed with the RMB6's I have. They bottomed pretty easily. I have not tried the SSMB6, but if they are anything like the RMB series, I wouldn't recommend them.
There are better drivers out there, but it really depends what your size restrictions are for midbass in the doors.
Thread Starter
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 16
Well. i want to keep enough treble and midrange upfront to balance the bass in the back, so i am heasitant...hesetant..hes..w.e., to swap my door 6.5's for MidBass 6" or 8" not only for the loss of midrange but also it would sheake my doors like they were a baby and the speakers were an angry british nanny all hopped up on cough syrup. which is bad. Which is part of the reason i am pushing more towards 2 8" or 10" subs in a sealed box in the trunk. It is a hatch back so ots not like its in a sealed up sedan trunk.
I was listening to some songs and watching them in a spectrum analyzer on my laptop and 80 hz is where my sub loses its touch, so im thinking sum 10" in a Toight box might do er good
plus intereior door space isnt exactly abundant in my whip so i woukld beable to properly enlose that biotch in m door
I was listening to some songs and watching them in a spectrum analyzer on my laptop and 80 hz is where my sub loses its touch, so im thinking sum 10" in a Toight box might do er good
plus intereior door space isnt exactly abundant in my whip so i woukld beable to properly enlose that biotch in m door
I'm not sure if you're willing or not...but I'd suggest using a dedicated midrange in the kicks, and dedicated midbass in the doors.
If you're not willing to do kicks then I'd suggest replacing your mids with something that's a little more capable.
I really don't like the idea if midbass drivers in the rear, but if you're set on it, try it out. Perhaps you can try a test enclosure.
If you're not willing to do kicks then I'd suggest replacing your mids with something that's a little more capable.
I really don't like the idea if midbass drivers in the rear, but if you're set on it, try it out. Perhaps you can try a test enclosure.
I took my 6" Alpines (made by Dynaudio) and put them into small enclosures and stuck them right in front of my front seat shooting up and it sounds great. Tons of midbass (225w rms to each). Some say it's anoying because of legrrom restriction but I can live with that and I don't have my doors rattling to !!
