avidedtr

iTrader: (11)

Now that is interesting - HP and it doesn't x10 the freq. I must thinking of Arc SE's. A Pillar is good, get you amps installed and try your tweeter in many locations until you are happy.

Lay

Yeah, I don't know why, but I think the 900.6 was meant to be played with passive crossover.

By the way man, thanks a lot. You really help noobs like me a lot.

It's funny how you mention Whitby HiFi, they said that they could wire my friend's dual 13W7 setup to 2 ohms... I have no idea how.. o.o

avidedtr

iTrader: (11)

Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 3 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 0.75 Ohm


Is all that sub can do. Hmmm

Lay

Well, in a dual setup it would be
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 1.5 ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 0.38 ohms

You think that dual 300.4 will be a good combo? I could safely run my tweeters and mids.

jstoner22

iTrader: (1)

get a leviathan!

more power than the arc (4x60 + 2x155 vs. 6x150, two ohm is an even bigger difference) (and two of the arcs channels are sub only, no full range)

better efficiency than the arc

much more flexible crossovers (3 way frontstage with no need for any external crossovers)

annnndd less money than the arc.


that and your jl amp and you have tons of power in a much more affordable, more flexible, more efficient, 2 amp setup. which means cheaper easier install too.

avidedtr

iTrader: (11)

Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 3 Ohms ( wired in Series )
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 0.75 Ohm ( wired in Parallel )

Safely run the 300.4? I don't know you listening habits and tuning experience?

Lay

That's in single sub wiring, I said my friend's DUAL 13W7. My tuning experience would be to my ears, using a few songs that I know of VERY well.

I'll consider that, jstoner22. The only problem I see, is that the 6-ch Zed Audio leviathan also has 2 channels that are sub only. And they only have Low pass, which wouldn't be of any use to me, but thanks for the suggestion. Keep the smoke hard my friend

avidedtr

iTrader: (11)

AH now that makes more sense. 1.5 still isn't 2ohms but hey Hifi knows Best.

Lay

I guess... Very friendly people, but one of their staff told a group of us that JL W7's were the best sounding subs from JL... So... Yeah...

I think the dual ARC Audio KS300.4 will be the best solution for me, thanks to everyone, and especially to avidedtr.

avidedtr

iTrader: (11)

Your solution is what 'you' think can be done within the the budget you have. Fozzzy and I are pointing you in the Arc direction cause of personal experiences. Like Fozz said, forget rears for the time being and get your front stage working right for you. Then decide if you need rears.
In the list of things to consider amplifiers are about #5-6 on the importance list. I don't know if you have taken into consideration speaker position, baffle/enclosure construction methods and implemention, sound dampening, absorption and venting, source/processing before the amplifier. IMHO you are expecting more then expected. IMHO an amplifier that amplifies a speakers that has very little treatment will do very little to make the speaker sound any better.

In the past 4 years I've owned the following amps: Audison LRx & VRx, Sundown, Arc SE and Zapco DC. Over 15years i've installed: JL Slash, Zapco C2K, JL HD, PPI, Soundsteam, JBL, Rodek, Kicker, basswork, kenwood, pioneer, coustic, rockfordfosgate, fusion, planetaudio ect - they all sound great and do what they are supposed to do amplify sound.

My conclusion about amps is I prefer ArcSE's the most to the ^^^ list. Zapco DC ref are a close second-simply because of the internal processing and ******* dynamics. All amps all have their +'s and -'s to them but if an amp can't stay in control and is only linear from low to mid - imho it's not an amp for me and my application.

I won't have my L6SE's installed until spring. The L4SE's are pre-ordered and going in as soon as Scott starts shipping them to dealers on Dec 26th. I don't have time to install them since I'm in the process of building my HT room.

I hope this info helps.