are these good?
Leaving aside any thoughts on the quality issue...
Yes the amp will run the subs....if they are in a properly designed ported box they will sound as good as they can get....running the amp in 2ohm stereo or 4 ohm mono mode will draw the maximum amount of power the amp can put out without frying and the cap will help keep your headlights from dimming....
That amp would probably do a better job running 1 or 2 sets of components or coaxs, depending on how you plan on setting up the rest of the system. There are plenty of amps available that will do a better job on your subs, if you check the classifieds here you may find something right away tha you can get used without spending a lot more $$$....
Having said that, I would suggest you get someone to help you with the install if you can...the box will make the most difference in the sound, if you can do it yourself that's fine, but you will need to design it right.
If you can supply a little more info about your car etc., we can help some more.....
HTH
Yes the amp will run the subs....if they are in a properly designed ported box they will sound as good as they can get....running the amp in 2ohm stereo or 4 ohm mono mode will draw the maximum amount of power the amp can put out without frying and the cap will help keep your headlights from dimming....
That amp would probably do a better job running 1 or 2 sets of components or coaxs, depending on how you plan on setting up the rest of the system. There are plenty of amps available that will do a better job on your subs, if you check the classifieds here you may find something right away tha you can get used without spending a lot more $$$....
Having said that, I would suggest you get someone to help you with the install if you can...the box will make the most difference in the sound, if you can do it yourself that's fine, but you will need to design it right.
If you can supply a little more info about your car etc., we can help some more.....
HTH
Oh brother.....here we go again....
I have no intention of getting into another pointless debate about the merits of caps...my response was to this particular situation. Considering he already has the cap, it will not hurt anything if he installs it. Also considering the size of the amp and the current it will draw, the cap may not even be necessary to prevent headlight dimming.
HTH
I have no intention of getting into another pointless debate about the merits of caps...my response was to this particular situation. Considering he already has the cap, it will not hurt anything if he installs it. Also considering the size of the amp and the current it will draw, the cap may not even be necessary to prevent headlight dimming.
HTH
Originally Posted by BigRedGuy
Oh brother.....here we go again....
I have no intention of getting into another pointless debate about the merits of caps...my response was to this particular situation. Considering he already has the cap, it will not hurt anything if he installs it. Also considering the size of the amp and the current it will draw, the cap may not even be necessary to prevent headlight dimming.
HTH
I have no intention of getting into another pointless debate about the merits of caps...my response was to this particular situation. Considering he already has the cap, it will not hurt anything if he installs it. Also considering the size of the amp and the current it will draw, the cap may not even be necessary to prevent headlight dimming.
HTH
Originally Posted by zoomer
Why do you consider a objective, data, and research based discussion to be pointless. By making your statement about caps curing dimming lights, you are perpetuating the myth. If anyone has an extra $100 lying around there are better ways to spend it than buying a cap.
Power caps are simply a band-aid for the problem... they don't get rid of it, but help the situation. in no way is it as good as other upgrades to your electrical system, but it's no different than adding a second battery, just the cap is much smaller.
Mark
Originally Posted by SQ Civic
Rather than posting without actually saying anything, why not explain why they won't help, aside from just spouting off what someone else said.
Power caps are simply a band-aid for the problem... they don't get rid of it, but help the situation. in no way is it as good as other upgrades to your electrical system, but it's no different than adding a second battery, just the cap is much smaller.
Mark
Power caps are simply a band-aid for the problem... they don't get rid of it, but help the situation. in no way is it as good as other upgrades to your electrical system, but it's no different than adding a second battery, just the cap is much smaller.
Mark
refute the claim. That is called science and it is the basis of our civilization.
There is not one shred of evidence that I have found by any reputable person on any reputable site that proves that a 1 or 2 farad capacitor does anything to reduce dimming lights that are cause by high current draw of a sub amp during bass notes.
I have an open mind, I am happy to look at any evidence that you may have.
500 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 870
A cap will act as a filter, and resist the voltage change in the system, in direct proportion to the amount of current being drawn at any given time.
Without a cap, the lights will dim instantly as the current drawn exceeds the output of the alternator. With a cap, the voltage will not drop until the cap has been drained of it's excess electrons. The time that this takes will depend on the amount and time that the current drawn exceeds the alternators output, but it will not be zero.
The net result of adding a cap will be to slow down the dimming of the lights, and will be apparent with musical peaks of short duration....they will still dim, but they won't "flicker" as much.
The down side of a cap is that it will also inhibit the system recovering to full alternator voltage equally as effectively. This is why SPL systems usually find that a cap lowers the score, since readings are taken over three seconds.
If one were to install a 1 Farad cap directly to the light supply, as opposed to the amp supply, it could be very effective at reducing the change of brightness.
Adding a coil of sufficient size, to further isolate the lights from the stereo would offer even further benefits.
Without a cap, the lights will dim instantly as the current drawn exceeds the output of the alternator. With a cap, the voltage will not drop until the cap has been drained of it's excess electrons. The time that this takes will depend on the amount and time that the current drawn exceeds the alternators output, but it will not be zero.
The net result of adding a cap will be to slow down the dimming of the lights, and will be apparent with musical peaks of short duration....they will still dim, but they won't "flicker" as much.
The down side of a cap is that it will also inhibit the system recovering to full alternator voltage equally as effectively. This is why SPL systems usually find that a cap lowers the score, since readings are taken over three seconds.
If one were to install a 1 Farad cap directly to the light supply, as opposed to the amp supply, it could be very effective at reducing the change of brightness.
Adding a coil of sufficient size, to further isolate the lights from the stereo would offer even further benefits.
Charlie
Your statements are generally tru in terms of capacitors and inductors acting as low pass filters.
But please prove your statements with calculations such as:
How much energy can a 1 farad cap store?
How long can a 1 farad cap sustain 12 volts given a specific current draw?
How much and for how long does a sub amp draw current during bass notes.
In other words, how long can a 1 farad cap supply 50 amperes of current to an amplifyer? How does this time compare to the duration and interval of bass tones.
Some schematic diagrams with numbers for resistance, capacitance, current, time etc would also be usefull.
I do agree that in order to reduce dimming lights, it is better to put a cap in paralel with the headlights. But you missed somehting: the amp will still draw current from the cap instead of the battery because of its lower internal resistance. Now, if you put a diode in series, between the battery and the cap feeding the ligns,it will prevent the amp from draining the cap.
Your statements are generally tru in terms of capacitors and inductors acting as low pass filters.
But please prove your statements with calculations such as:
How much energy can a 1 farad cap store?
How long can a 1 farad cap sustain 12 volts given a specific current draw?
How much and for how long does a sub amp draw current during bass notes.
In other words, how long can a 1 farad cap supply 50 amperes of current to an amplifyer? How does this time compare to the duration and interval of bass tones.
Some schematic diagrams with numbers for resistance, capacitance, current, time etc would also be usefull.
I do agree that in order to reduce dimming lights, it is better to put a cap in paralel with the headlights. But you missed somehting: the amp will still draw current from the cap instead of the battery because of its lower internal resistance. Now, if you put a diode in series, between the battery and the cap feeding the ligns,it will prevent the amp from draining the cap.
