What x-over to use
05-26-2005, 07:12 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Ok, here's the setup:
8" in doors, 6.5" + tweet in kicks, 15" in trunk, plus a few misc drivers strewn around the back for the Mame console + headphones.
Now, on the sub channel, I have a Bass CUBE that I am not adverse to removing. Subs are sealed.
On the fronts, I have no processing yet but may put in my Alpine 7 band parametric once I get my calibrated mic shipped (if it ever gets here).
So, right now I am BASICALLY looking for a crossover for my subs, just a 24dB/oct. If I were picky, I would want Audiocontrol, Alpine, ID or PG but anthing cheaply attainable would be nice. An ideal device would be almost identical to the bass CUBE except including the crossover point.
If there existed something for the fronts and the subs all in one, I would love to hear about it. It would need to be able to control a pissload of channels as my system is 100% active right now (not because it's better, but because amps sitting around doing nothing pisses me off).
8" in doors, 6.5" + tweet in kicks, 15" in trunk, plus a few misc drivers strewn around the back for the Mame console + headphones.
Now, on the sub channel, I have a Bass CUBE that I am not adverse to removing. Subs are sealed.
On the fronts, I have no processing yet but may put in my Alpine 7 band parametric once I get my calibrated mic shipped (if it ever gets here).
So, right now I am BASICALLY looking for a crossover for my subs, just a 24dB/oct. If I were picky, I would want Audiocontrol, Alpine, ID or PG but anthing cheaply attainable would be nice. An ideal device would be almost identical to the bass CUBE except including the crossover point.
If there existed something for the fronts and the subs all in one, I would love to hear about it. It would need to be able to control a pissload of channels as my system is 100% active right now (not because it's better, but because amps sitting around doing nothing pisses me off).
05-26-2005, 08:33 AM
#2
It's old skool but I have an Alpine 3656 crossover. The model that superceded it was the 3672. Same thing, just updated look. It's a 6-way, but can better be described as a separate 4-way and 2-way. Very flexible. With the 4-way, you can do sub, midbass, mid and tweet. And then have the other 2-way section for whatever. Only downside is it is an analog crossover so only 12 dB slopes and no fancy remote to adjust it. You can get them on Ebay for $50 usually. I lucked out to find a 99% mint one. Their first digital crossover units (3681 and later the PRH-400) are nice too.
Another nice brand of crossover that can be had for cheap is a Coustic XM-3 or XM-5. They are easy to work with, don't cost a lot and are completely quiet.
[ May 26, 2005, 09:34 AM: Message edited by: SUX 2BU ]
Another nice brand of crossover that can be had for cheap is a Coustic XM-3 or XM-5. They are easy to work with, don't cost a lot and are completely quiet.
[ May 26, 2005, 09:34 AM: Message edited by: SUX 2BU ]
05-26-2005, 12:50 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
The 3672 I believe is 4v capable. Really nice unit. Is your EQ the 3402? If it's the 3401 then it is only 2v anyway.
The Coustic XM-7 is what you need. Awesome unit with sub, midbass/mid/tweet front, and midbass/mid/tweet rear plus a single parametric EQ band per channel to boot! Pretty rare and go for $100+ usually on ebay.
Or you could sell your EQ and pick up a used EPX2 with 28band. Go for around $250US on ebay.
Someone is bound to recommend the AC 4XS. I personally would avoid it - it takes chips to change frequency and IMO is a pain in the *** to use compared to the Alpine or Coustic.
The Coustic XM-7 is what you need. Awesome unit with sub, midbass/mid/tweet front, and midbass/mid/tweet rear plus a single parametric EQ band per channel to boot! Pretty rare and go for $100+ usually on ebay.
Or you could sell your EQ and pick up a used EPX2 with 28band. Go for around $250US on ebay.
Someone is bound to recommend the AC 4XS. I personally would avoid it - it takes chips to change frequency and IMO is a pain in the *** to use compared to the Alpine or Coustic.
05-27-2005, 07:34 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
I have the 3402 ... $75 or $100 at pawn shop 
Couldn't find a cheaper one on eBay.
I was actually thinking about the EPX2 ... people are so stupid to have forgotten about that machine; so nice and now it's so cheap. Still, I think a WEE bit of an overkill but it SUUUUURE looks cool.
Will look for the XM-7, sounds like exactly what I want and $100-$150 is totally in my range (I could sell my Bass CUBE locally for that much). Also, the 4XS is now out of the question: my buddy has an Epicenter with that stupid chip deal; it now has a bunch of 1/4ohm resistors jammed in it.
Couldn't find a cheaper one on eBay.I was actually thinking about the EPX2 ... people are so stupid to have forgotten about that machine; so nice and now it's so cheap. Still, I think a WEE bit of an overkill but it SUUUUURE looks cool.
Will look for the XM-7, sounds like exactly what I want and $100-$150 is totally in my range (I could sell my Bass CUBE locally for that much). Also, the 4XS is now out of the question: my buddy has an Epicenter with that stupid chip deal; it now has a bunch of 1/4ohm resistors jammed in it.
05-31-2005, 10:27 AM
#6
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 149
Don't know about the 3402, but the 3401 is 1.6V MAX MAX input (it is actually rated at 0.5v). This was tested on a scope - anything higher than 1.6v input is pure straight line clipping top and bottom.
BTW, the "gain" controls are simply attenuators - if you put 1.7v in with the EQ gains all the way down, you still have clipping. Just turn those up to 0dB and use the amp gain controls.
Also my guess is the 3402 is the same - the only differences I am aware of is the 3402 has a switching PS and different cosmetics and control *****.
Mark
BTW, the "gain" controls are simply attenuators - if you put 1.7v in with the EQ gains all the way down, you still have clipping. Just turn those up to 0dB and use the amp gain controls.
Also my guess is the 3402 is the same - the only differences I am aware of is the 3402 has a switching PS and different cosmetics and control *****.
Mark
05-31-2005, 11:11 AM
#7
The 3402 owners manual lists a max input up to 4v so they changed something I guess. I got my Premier deck going into my 3401 and it doesn't clip although it's only a 2V deck so I guess I'm okay there. I have to do the gain matching thing though with it so I'm getting full potential of my system. Interesting tidbit on the 3401 gains being just attenuators though.
05-31-2005, 12:08 PM
#8
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 149
Yeah, plus they are post processing attenuators meaning if your input level and/or EQ settings send the signal into clipping, all they will do is lower the gain and still pass the clipping. As you elude, proper gain matching is the way to set a 3401 up properly.
BTW AudioControl processors are nice to have on each end of a 3401 with those 1 volt indicators! [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
SUX 2BU >> Did you see my pair of white 3401s yet? [img]smile.gif[/img]
Mark
[ May 31, 2005, 01:10 PM: Message edited by: NOBASS ]
BTW AudioControl processors are nice to have on each end of a 3401 with those 1 volt indicators! [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
SUX 2BU >> Did you see my pair of white 3401s yet? [img]smile.gif[/img]
Mark
[ May 31, 2005, 01:10 PM: Message edited by: NOBASS ]
05-31-2005, 04:48 PM
#10
Originally posted by Dukk:
Someone is bound to recommend the AC 4XS. I personally would avoid it - it takes chips to change frequency and IMO is a pain in the *** to use compared to the Alpine or Coustic. [/QB]
Someone is bound to recommend the AC 4XS. I personally would avoid it - it takes chips to change frequency and IMO is a pain in the *** to use compared to the Alpine or Coustic. [/QB]
Other than that, an excellent piece.
