4G wire how fare can i run it
the SUV is about 17' i think i need about 20'-30' to do the job so do i need to go to 2G wire
i have 1 PG 500.2 and 1 u-dimension 40xs v.2
also if i have my crossover at the amp and run the speaker wire the the speakers high/mids or will this be better speaker wire down to near the speaker and have the crossover there than to the high/mids
also do i need a cap?
i have 1 PG 500.2 and 1 u-dimension 40xs v.2
also if i have my crossover at the amp and run the speaker wire the the speakers high/mids or will this be better speaker wire down to near the speaker and have the crossover there than to the high/mids
also do i need a cap?
Really 2 awg should be fine but you might want to consider just going with 1 awg so that if u do buy a larger amp/amps you wont have to worry about the wire.
As for a cap... that topic could go on fore ever lol. But most ppl refer to them as more of a band-aid then any thing else. I would say that u wouldnt need one as long as all you power/ground wires are large enough. Personaly I would do "THE BIG 3" before i would buy a cap.
As for a cap... that topic could go on fore ever lol. But most ppl refer to them as more of a band-aid then any thing else. I would say that u wouldnt need one as long as all you power/ground wires are large enough. Personaly I would do "THE BIG 3" before i would buy a cap.
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Check out this cool interactive meter from Streetwires: http://www.streetwires.com/Flash/powerwire.html
4ga is probably alright.
From a purist's point of view, your passive crossover should be as close to the speaker as possible.
4ga is probably alright.
From a purist's point of view, your passive crossover should be as close to the speaker as possible.
Agrees with ^^^^, this is getting way too common. If you plan on running your system full tilt and have the alternator to deliver the jam, then a wire upgrade might be in order.
Keep the box sealed - do not succumb to the dark side of the schwartz. That should about do it.
Keep the box sealed - do not succumb to the dark side of the schwartz. That should about do it.
From a purist's point of view, your passive crossover should be as close to the speaker as possible. [/QB][/QUOTE]
why
can i run two wires out form the crossover to the speaker the same 10'.if the high get a 10' wire and the mids get the same 10' wire
you are saying run 1 wire out 10' than crossover then the two wires to the speakers
the SUV have not started yet all the parts are sitting on the coffy table i need to get the wire
ps. i have a 10F cap form PG i do not see the need for it if i do this right
why
can i run two wires out form the crossover to the speaker the same 10'.if the high get a 10' wire and the mids get the same 10' wire
you are saying run 1 wire out 10' than crossover then the two wires to the speakers
the SUV have not started yet all the parts are sitting on the coffy table i need to get the wire
ps. i have a 10F cap form PG i do not see the need for it if i do this right
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Originally posted by MR2NR:
Keep the box sealed
Keep the box sealed
you bastard.
Why? Because the passive crossover was designed to work with the driver, not the driver plus 10feet of wire that has it's own resistance, capacitance, and inductance. Is this a big deal? Not usually but ultimately if one way is better than the other it would be to have the crossover as close to the drivers as possible.
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