That settles it. Install the amp NoiseComplaint, and hook the speakers up to put a 2 ohm load on each channel. You're really going to get A LOT more out of those speakers that way.

 

oh yeah...that's a no brainer to me. 200watts through 4 full range speakers high passed (cross over) at 80 hz using the amp's cross over, and run your sub low passed at 80 hz...you're on audio cloud nine!

 

alright sounds good everyone. thanks for the help. I'll run all 4 speakers from the amp and let you know what I think. My other question is though, does anyone have a quick and easy way to re-wire the front door speakers (with new wiring). I want to use new wiring, rather than the stock wires. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. And my car is a 1998 Honda Accord.

 

There's no quick or easy way, the stock wires are more than adequate for your application. Most stock car wiring for speakers is 16-18 awg using heavy duty, high quality jacketing...there's no reason not to use it at the power levels, and length you're using. To give you an example; you can deliver 50 watts rms through a 60 foot length of 16 awg wire at 4ohms to reach it's audible threshold in dB loss...1dB is considered the minimum level humans can detect. Even at this output, the speaker wire is still thermally stable as it's circular mils/amp is well over 300..in fact it's 817. Even a 20 awg wire would have to be 24 feet long to reach that audible limit with that power.

go to this site and scroll down on the right hand corner to number 16 "wire", it has a speaker wire calculator there:

Basic Car Audio Electronics

 

alright.. but I'm going to be running the wires from my amp? what do you recommend doing? tapping into the speaker wire from behind the HU and then running a new wire back to my amp? Or can I just replace the old wiring with new stuff so I can just make a direct connection from the amp to the speakers. If I do this, I still need to get it into the doors somehow? this is where I need some advice.

 

tap into the head unit harness...if you look around you might be able to get a reverse harness that plugs into the head unit harness...this really simplifies things as you can do the soldering to the pig tails on the workbench and just plug it in. otherwise, it's only 4 wires you have to solder to the harness. Just strip away half an inch of the wire jacket, and wrap your extention wire around it, solder, and tape or heat-shrink. You only have to do the front doors this way. The rear speakers can just get new wiring as it's right near the amp. If you really want to add new wires to the door, then by all means, go for it...you just won't hear a difference, and it can be a pain in the ***.

 

so I took the advice, hooked my speakers up to the amp at a 2ohm load.. and wow, I could definetly hear the difference in the highs and mids. I'm not sure if I had my EQ settings wrong but I couldn't seem to get as much "thump" out of them as I was when they were running from my HU. So of course I start messing with the amp, with the volume cranked (of course).. terrible idea, I now realise. I blew the mids in a matter of seconds.. not too happy, but definetly my own fault. Anyways I ruined that glory moment pretty quick. So now, I'm wondering what speakers to invest in next. I'd like ones with more bass capabilities and to be able to handle the amps power at high volumes. Preferrably anywhere between $300-$400 for the set of 4.

 

when you were tuning did you have the loud button off? Plus if you blew them are you sure you want to tune another set yourself? If you knwo its yoru fault entirely and know what you did wrong then cool, if you didn't hear the distortion before they blew you might want to get someone that has installed stuff before to help you and give you some tips on hearing distortion and setting your gains. You should always be able to hear distortion usually WELL before a speaker blows.

As for speakers, I'm using kenwood right now. Cheap, but they are decent for what I paid I just threw a xtant 4180c on them today and they sound pretty awesome.

(can't wait til I put in my ID cd2Comp HCLD's in a week )

 

I had to quote myself. As soon as you mentioned 3-ways I shuddered a little bit. Why do we buy numbers? I've been guilty of it too. Who would argue that 3 isn't better than 1? In this case, it wasn't.

Anyway, for your problem at hand... Spend more on your front speakers. If you're able to get component speakers installed, and can afford them, it'll be a wise choice. In a component set the tweeter is separate, and focuses solely on the highs. This allows your 6.5" speaker to take care of the mid-bass to mid-high frequencies. Which means that they'll be more efficient at producing that little bit of thump you're looking for, than co-axial speakers will be. Then you'd probably do well to get 2-way 6x9's. Even if you were to get 6x9's that were just that (no built in tweeter) you'd probably be happy with the end result.

I've been running 6.5" component MB Quart Reference series speakers in my front doors for the last 5 years. They're beautiful sounding. Their bass response isn't deadly, but they are very capable. The rear are 6x9 coaxial (built-in tweeter) MB Quart Discus series. Discus is a lower level model in the MBQ line-up. Simply because they are a larger speaker, they produce more bass than the fronts.

All these speakers are getting 80W @ 4 ohm off a Memphis Belle 5 channel amplifier.

Click this link. OnlineCarStereo.com
That's where I go to get a start on things. Its good cause you can see a whole lot at once. When I see something that peaks my interest, I go to that particular manufacturers website to verify all the information. I wouldn't buy anything from them. Just use the site to see what is available.

I do recommend MB Quart. Some of them have a frequency range as low as 35Hz. You probably wouldn't send a signal that low to them. But my logic is if they can play that sound at all, then they can probably play 80Hz more efficiently than a speaker that is only rated as low as 60Hz.

What else. I've also been told that speakers made by "speaker" manufacturers generally sound better than speakers made by "electronics" manufacturers. What I mean is that MB Quart/Boston Acoustic/Hertz speakers will sound better than Kenwood/Pioneer/Sony speakers. Generally. Don't limit yourself. Start by compiling a list of speakers that can handle the power they'll receive from your amp. Then post that list here. Then, go to the manufacturer websites of those speakers and compile a list of retailers in your area. Then go listen to them. It'll take some time, and patience. But in the end, you'll make a decision based on sound, and not numbers.

I'll be here to help along the way.

 

did you blow everything? I'd get components for the front...if your budget is 400.00, then spend 350.00 on the front comps, and since you have a 2 ohm stable amp, then you can look for a 2 ohm comp set like the Image Dynamics, or infinity Kappa, JBL p660c, and find a decent pair of used Infinity 6x9's(4ohm), unless your 6x9's are still good, and power it from your deck. You should be able to get the Infinity or JBL for around 300-350. I've owned the Infinitys and they're good, quite loud, and very clean, and they can handle 90watts rms.