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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 09:51 AM
  #12  
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Dukk:
This is why I try to get people to think about what they are doing rather than just launching into something because it is the 'Hype of the Day'. [/QUOTE

actually i have thought alot about it and have done much reasearch on this subject. just because it appears that someone is a "noob", that isn`t always the case. for every one question that is posed on these types of forums, there are 10 different opinions or options, you just have to filter down into the logical conclusions.
Old Sep 3, 2005 | 04:53 AM
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Originally posted by Dukk:
Of course people are going to have opinions. However, at the end of all that, there is a right way, a wrong way, and occasionally a "you can do it that way but I wouldn't" and a person should know what catagory they are delving into.


So then, since you researched this: where is the fuse in that charge lead and why? Why not two? Why one at all? Why 300 amps of all things?
this looks like i`m trying to be "made light of", but the 300 amp fuse was taken off the internet from a "car stereo installation basics", they have a chart with fuse sizes based on ga of wire. 0/1 ga was recommended of 300-350 amps, so i arrived at 300. also i though about fusing both ends of the wire but only saw the need towards the battery end to prevent overload just in case. i believe that adding too many fused links on a power line creates resistance. perhaps i might move the block to the center of the line (meeting both argumements half way) but i`m still pondering that one. when i said i did research, that didn`t mean i started a "body cleanse" to purge my insides of impurities so my intake of inforamtion will be pure-a-fied, i went on a few forums, read previous posts, and tried to draw some useful information. other than that, i don`t know what to tell ya. i had a question, i needed some expert advise, and thats that. thanks again for the lesson in ethics, and your advice.
Old Sep 3, 2005 | 06:49 AM
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IMHO a fuse is to protect equiptment from overloads. The fuse at the battery is to protect the car from burning if the power gets shorted. Other than cost of larger fuse , what diff does it make if it's a 300 amp fuse supplying power to a 100 amp device as long as it has an internal fuse / self protect system ?
Old Sep 3, 2005 | 06:51 AM
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P.S. As the the hard shifting issue I haven't a clue , never having had a car with a ' smart ' transmission .
Old Sep 3, 2005 | 07:10 AM
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Ever done any arc-welding? If you try to pass all the battery's current to ground (in the event of an accident, for example) the battery wire would probably melt its insulation off, ignite anything in the vicinity, and reduce the car to a lump of slag before that 300A fuse would blow.
I think that's the point being made related to the fuse value.
Old Sep 3, 2005 | 10:03 AM
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Originally posted by Drysuit John:
P.S. As the the hard shifting issue I haven't a clue , never having had a car with a ' smart ' transmission .
after i ripped out all the wires, it went back to normal, now this is either because of the above, or it returned to normal on its own. tomorrow i will reinstall the wires and se what happens. smart tranny`s are dumb in my book
Old Sep 3, 2005 | 08:58 PM
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if you un-power a bmw for some time the tranny will shift hard for a 60min befor it gets it into the cpu of the tranny



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