Bunch of Questions on wiring....
#1
I've done all the research I can but all it has done is leave me with more questions.
Alpine 7897 Head Unit
MRP-M350 Amp
1x SWS - 1042D Sub
MRV-F340 Amp
JL VR650 Components
-Do I want to run a power wire from the battery to the head unit or is the power in the oem clip good enough? Same question for the ground? The Alpine wire looks so much thicker than the one to the stock radio.
-Do I need a cap? I have a 1998 2.2L Sonoma. I beleive the stock alternator is 100amps. Will doing the big 3 conversion be necesary?
What's the best way to run power to the amps? I was thinking 4gauge to a distribution block mounted to the amp rack with a short 8 gauge to each amp. Do I need a distribution block with fuses (one for each amp)? I'll have a fuse on the 4gauge at the battery.
How do I do the remote turn on for 2 amps? Do I need a relay? How would the wire scheme work for that. Where would I get the power? I understand that the head unit would turn on the relay but what powering the other side?
I know that this is alot of questions. Anyhelp would be great.
Thanks.
Alpine 7897 Head Unit
MRP-M350 Amp
1x SWS - 1042D Sub
MRV-F340 Amp
JL VR650 Components
-Do I want to run a power wire from the battery to the head unit or is the power in the oem clip good enough? Same question for the ground? The Alpine wire looks so much thicker than the one to the stock radio.
-Do I need a cap? I have a 1998 2.2L Sonoma. I beleive the stock alternator is 100amps. Will doing the big 3 conversion be necesary?
What's the best way to run power to the amps? I was thinking 4gauge to a distribution block mounted to the amp rack with a short 8 gauge to each amp. Do I need a distribution block with fuses (one for each amp)? I'll have a fuse on the 4gauge at the battery.
How do I do the remote turn on for 2 amps? Do I need a relay? How would the wire scheme work for that. Where would I get the power? I understand that the head unit would turn on the relay but what powering the other side?
I know that this is alot of questions. Anyhelp would be great.
Thanks.
#2
ok, first thing first...
-Do I want to run a power wire from the battery to the head unit or is the power in the oem clip good enough? Same question for the ground? The Alpine wire looks so much thicker than the one to the stock radio.
you should be more than fine using the stock powerm and ground wire in the factory harness, but if you wanted to upgrade it, 10 awg works great, for both pwr, and ground.
-Do I need a cap? I have a 1998 2.2L Sonoma. I beleive the stock alternator is 100amps. Will doing the big 3 conversion be necesary?
I wouldn't waste any money on a cap. useless IMO. the stock Alt should be fine for the system you stated above, but if you wanted to upgrade something on the cheap, doing the "big 3" even without upgrading the Alt. would be a great idea, and it's cheap and easy to do yourself.
What's the best way to run power to the amps? I was thinking 4gauge to a distribution block mounted to the amp rack with a short 8 gauge to each amp. Do I need a distribution block with fuses (one for each amp)? I'll have a fuse on the 4gauge at the battery.
that is a perfectly fine idea. as far as fusing on the distro block, I wouldn't say it's stupid to go without them, as you have a fuse on the main 4 awg pwr wire, but if you can, then I would.
How do I do the remote turn on for 2 amps? Do I need a relay? How would the wire scheme work for that. Where would I get the power? I understand that the head unit would turn on the relay but what powering the other side?
And last, but not least, what you want to get, is a standard SPDT relay, you can get them at Canadian tire, NAPA, or any autoparts store, and wire it up like this:
then you will be able to connect as many things to that remote turn on lead as you wish... hope that helps
Mark
-Do I want to run a power wire from the battery to the head unit or is the power in the oem clip good enough? Same question for the ground? The Alpine wire looks so much thicker than the one to the stock radio.
you should be more than fine using the stock powerm and ground wire in the factory harness, but if you wanted to upgrade it, 10 awg works great, for both pwr, and ground.
-Do I need a cap? I have a 1998 2.2L Sonoma. I beleive the stock alternator is 100amps. Will doing the big 3 conversion be necesary?
I wouldn't waste any money on a cap. useless IMO. the stock Alt should be fine for the system you stated above, but if you wanted to upgrade something on the cheap, doing the "big 3" even without upgrading the Alt. would be a great idea, and it's cheap and easy to do yourself.
What's the best way to run power to the amps? I was thinking 4gauge to a distribution block mounted to the amp rack with a short 8 gauge to each amp. Do I need a distribution block with fuses (one for each amp)? I'll have a fuse on the 4gauge at the battery.
that is a perfectly fine idea. as far as fusing on the distro block, I wouldn't say it's stupid to go without them, as you have a fuse on the main 4 awg pwr wire, but if you can, then I would.
How do I do the remote turn on for 2 amps? Do I need a relay? How would the wire scheme work for that. Where would I get the power? I understand that the head unit would turn on the relay but what powering the other side?
And last, but not least, what you want to get, is a standard SPDT relay, you can get them at Canadian tire, NAPA, or any autoparts store, and wire it up like this:
then you will be able to connect as many things to that remote turn on lead as you wish... hope that helps
Mark
#3
Just a note on the fuses:
To do things properly, you should have a fused distribution block IN ADDITION to the fuse on the 4 ga power cable.
This is because the fuse on the 4awg wire is designed to protect 4awg wire, but may be too big to protect the 8 gauge wire you have going to the amps. This depends on what size fuse you use, obviously.
molo
To do things properly, you should have a fused distribution block IN ADDITION to the fuse on the 4 ga power cable.
This is because the fuse on the 4awg wire is designed to protect 4awg wire, but may be too big to protect the 8 gauge wire you have going to the amps. This depends on what size fuse you use, obviously.
molo
#4
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yoiu have a cda 7897 that is bass engine pro. run it in pro mode(3 way electronic x-over) so you can get rid of the passives x-overs that came with your jl components. this will give you a ton more flexiblilty in the x-overs. there is a tiny switch on the bottom of your cd player that says 2 way, and 3 way, switch it to 3 way. when you do thins the x-overs in the cd player will works like this, front will be tweeter, rear will midrange/bass, and sub reamins sub
both your amps have fuses in them, so running a fuse distrinution block in the rear of your vehicle is not only redundant but a waste of money. a non fused will be just fine
a realy wont be needed to turn on only 2 amps, you can just link from one amp to the other, a relay wont hurt by any means but its not needed
your factory wires in the oem harness are fine on the cda7897, if it had the v-drive amp in it, like a cda9833 of 9835 i would upgrade
both your amps have fuses in them, so running a fuse distrinution block in the rear of your vehicle is not only redundant but a waste of money. a non fused will be just fine
a realy wont be needed to turn on only 2 amps, you can just link from one amp to the other, a relay wont hurt by any means but its not needed
your factory wires in the oem harness are fine on the cda7897, if it had the v-drive amp in it, like a cda9833 of 9835 i would upgrade
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