Capacitor and/or Optima Yellow Top
#1
Hi guys,
My sound system gonna be installed next week in the new car I just bought, a Subaru Impreza RS wagon.
I hope to keep the car for at least 4 to 5 years so the quality and reliability of the installation is very important.
That's why I will try to help my electrical system having a long life too.
Should I buy a 1 farad capacitor and/or an Optima Yellow Top battery to help things out?
My amps are the JL Audio 500/1 (50 amps fuse recommanded) and 300/2 (40 amps fuse recommanded).
Thanks for any inputs.
My sound system gonna be installed next week in the new car I just bought, a Subaru Impreza RS wagon.
I hope to keep the car for at least 4 to 5 years so the quality and reliability of the installation is very important.
That's why I will try to help my electrical system having a long life too.
Should I buy a 1 farad capacitor and/or an Optima Yellow Top battery to help things out?
My amps are the JL Audio 500/1 (50 amps fuse recommanded) and 300/2 (40 amps fuse recommanded).
Thanks for any inputs.
#3
Definetly the yellow top first. But even before dropping in the yellow top i would do the "big 3" upgrdae. Im not sure how good the stock wiring is in that car .
I had heavy dimming before and i was runnign two PG amps. Ti400.2 50AMP fuse and PG T500.2 60AMP fuse. I upgraded the grounds and ran 0 gauge to back, cleaned up the grounds and all my dimmign went away....i still havent replaced the stock battery, a pos 450CCA....I bet if you drop in the new optima and do the wire upgrade your elec sys will not sweat it. Your sub amp is mono so its not gonna pull in 50A and ur 300/2, im assuming will be put on speaker/components and will never draw 40Amps unless you really crank it.
I had heavy dimming before and i was runnign two PG amps. Ti400.2 50AMP fuse and PG T500.2 60AMP fuse. I upgraded the grounds and ran 0 gauge to back, cleaned up the grounds and all my dimmign went away....i still havent replaced the stock battery, a pos 450CCA....I bet if you drop in the new optima and do the wire upgrade your elec sys will not sweat it. Your sub amp is mono so its not gonna pull in 50A and ur 300/2, im assuming will be put on speaker/components and will never draw 40Amps unless you really crank it.
#6
http://www.canadiancaraudio.com/cgi/...3;t=010620;p=1
[ June 19, 2005, 11:38 PM: Message edited by: GrizZz ]
[ June 19, 2005, 11:38 PM: Message edited by: GrizZz ]
#7
Whichever costs less. Not a major amount of power. Personal opinion - go with the cap first, unless you can find a really cheap yellow top. The 2 channel won't suck that much juice (I'm assuming it will be used for highs??), and the cap will take the edge off the juice being sucked up by the subs. I noticed more difference from a cap then a yellow top, but the battery is always a good choice too, if you have the extra cash laying around.
#8
Originally posted by J.R.:
The 2 channel won't suck that much juice (I'm assuming it will be used for highs??), and the cap will take the edge off the juice being sucked up by the subs.
The 2 channel won't suck that much juice (I'm assuming it will be used for highs??), and the cap will take the edge off the juice being sucked up by the subs.
My advice, do the battery and the 'big 3' and you should be fine.
#9
I actually noticed a huge difference when I got my yellow top. My voltage never dips below 13.2 and idles around 14 volts. That's less than a volt of drop when I have it cranked. Lights do not dim. That been said I also have caps and heavy wire. If you want to do things proper I think a balance of everything has to be met.
#10
a good deep cycle battery (optima, exide...) and the big 3 upgrade would probably be the best. that will provide you with good power ALL the time. caps are the devil and after you've done that upgrade you shouldn't need one but they are shiny people like them.
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