Ford Ranger SPL Cut-Through
01-07-2004, 05:05 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
here's the scenario.
I have a friend who is willing to get his Ranger truck done as a cutthrough. He has a box cover and all for the equip, now he wants to get into the spl game here.
Me and a friend are going to help him do the actual cutting of the whole from the cab to the box. Now seeing that neither of them know a thing about spl, or installing audio equip i am going to be building the box, and doing the setup for him. He wants extreme spl for SS1-2, and is looking at fitting 2 -15's.
Does anyone have any experience doing this kind of thing? I want to be able to put the 15's with the port through the cut-through. So He wants the subs/port visable in the cab of the truck.
I figured the hole will have to be minimum 16-17inches high, and to fit the port on the drivers side about 40 inches in length. I haven't done any other measurements or box designing yet, but just looking for some opinions, and suggestions from anyone?
Livin' Loud
I have a friend who is willing to get his Ranger truck done as a cutthrough. He has a box cover and all for the equip, now he wants to get into the spl game here.
Me and a friend are going to help him do the actual cutting of the whole from the cab to the box. Now seeing that neither of them know a thing about spl, or installing audio equip i am going to be building the box, and doing the setup for him. He wants extreme spl for SS1-2, and is looking at fitting 2 -15's.
Does anyone have any experience doing this kind of thing? I want to be able to put the 15's with the port through the cut-through. So He wants the subs/port visable in the cab of the truck.
I figured the hole will have to be minimum 16-17inches high, and to fit the port on the drivers side about 40 inches in length. I haven't done any other measurements or box designing yet, but just looking for some opinions, and suggestions from anyone?
Livin' Loud
01-08-2004, 12:40 AM
#2
You mean like this?
http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/412631/7
Contact him on SD and he will likely help you out.
Good guy to talk to.
http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/412631/7
Contact him on SD and he will likely help you out.
Good guy to talk to.
01-08-2004, 07:42 AM
#4
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 268
I have done exactly what you are talking in a b 2200 there are a couple of things to consider! First always drill a small pilot hole from the box in through the cab at approximatly the center of the proposed cutout area, then take a look at both sides to see if the hole must be adjusted as the cab and box often times vary in height. Next you will need some form of boot to seal the opening between the box and the cab as there is a gap obviously, next if you plan on porting it use the tunnel as a port and build it accordingly because if you mount a solid port from the box to the cab you will have problems because the cab and box are on different mounts and shift independent of eachother,this is where the boot i spoke of earlier comes into play Good luck just my .02
[ January 08, 2004, 08:43 AM: Message edited by: imntense ]
[ January 08, 2004, 08:43 AM: Message edited by: imntense ]
01-08-2004, 07:33 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
sweet awesome.. thanks.
i have been doing a bit more resaerch on it, and looking for advise. I found out that it would be easiest to make the port removable for spl, and daily driving purposes. and the port will defiantly be part of the box, not mounted onto the cab! We tried to find out if we could weld the cab to the box, but most places said they move differently and the weld would either crack/break, or the cab/box could even warp by doing that!
i have been doing a bit more resaerch on it, and looking for advise. I found out that it would be easiest to make the port removable for spl, and daily driving purposes. and the port will defiantly be part of the box, not mounted onto the cab! We tried to find out if we could weld the cab to the box, but most places said they move differently and the weld would either crack/break, or the cab/box could even warp by doing that!
01-08-2004, 07:34 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
sweet awesome.. thanks.
i have been doing a bit more resaerch on it, and looking for advise. I found out that it would be easiest to make the port removable for spl, and daily driving purposes. and the port will defiantly be part of the box, not mounted onto the cab! We tried to find out if we could weld the cab to the box, but most places said they move differently and the weld would either crack/break, or the cab/box could even warp by doing that!
i have been doing a bit more resaerch on it, and looking for advise. I found out that it would be easiest to make the port removable for spl, and daily driving purposes. and the port will defiantly be part of the box, not mounted onto the cab! We tried to find out if we could weld the cab to the box, but most places said they move differently and the weld would either crack/break, or the cab/box could even warp by doing that!
01-08-2004, 07:35 PM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
sweet awesome.. thanks.
i have been doing a bit more resaerch on it, and looking for advise. I found out that it would be easiest to make the port removable for spl, and daily driving purposes. and the port will defiantly be part of the box, not mounted onto the cab! We tried to find out if we could weld the cab to the box, but most places said they move differently and the weld would either crack/break, or the cab/box could even warp by doing that!
i have been doing a bit more resaerch on it, and looking for advise. I found out that it would be easiest to make the port removable for spl, and daily driving purposes. and the port will defiantly be part of the box, not mounted onto the cab! We tried to find out if we could weld the cab to the box, but most places said they move differently and the weld would either crack/break, or the cab/box could even warp by doing that!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
fatty matty
Install related
3
10-25-2006 11:15 PM
