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Help with remote Turn-On Wire

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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 07:17 PM
  #1  
TTBear's Avatar
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Hi, all.

We've got a 1995 Beretta, in pristine shape (35,000 miles on it - looks brand new both inside and out!) that we use as a third/winter car.

A colleague's son is going to borrow the car for a few months, until his father can buy the new model Honda Civic for him.

For a project, I'm installing an audio system in it. I have a good friend who is more or less giving me the equipment (he is a VERY good friend [img]smile.gif[/img] ), and I love installing equipment.

I've never used two amps in an install - usually, I've used a five or six channel amp. This time, I've got two. My question is, how do I turn on the amps by remote turn-on wire? do I just run a Y-adapter from the single remote turn-on wire from the head unit? What gauge wire should I use?


Thanks so much for the input - GREAT forum you guys have here!

For those interested, the equipment is:

Sony CDX M8805X head unit
Phoenix Gold Octane 4-channel amp (5.0:4)
Phoenix Gold Octane 2-channel amp (2.5:2)(bridged, for sub)
Infinity Kappa 3-way 6x9s for the rear deck (man, those rear seats were a ##### to get out!!!!)
Infinity Kappa 4x6 fronts, in the stock locations.


Thanks everyone!!!
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 07:57 PM
  #2  
Merlin's Avatar
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use a relay if you want. but with two amps you can usually just get away with ajumper.
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 08:28 PM
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Ya, my head unit powered up all four of my amps by itself, I was quite surprised actually. Then a few months later I was trouble-shooting something and installed a relay on the line just to be safe.

Two amps, you shouldn't need one. But it couldn't hurt, and they're cheap. The bonus of having a relay, is you can hook up fans, pretty lights, etc. to the relay as well, if you like.

Almost any gauge common wire (20, 18, 16, 14) will work for a remote lead, it moves very little power.

[ April 11, 2005, 09:30 PM: Message edited by: GrizZz ]
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 08:38 PM
  #4  
Thumper89's Avatar
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I turn on 2 amps with a single remote wire split off to two toggle switches...one for front stage..one for subs...this allows me trun the fronts off for competition and the subs when I have a splitting headache..lol...

Never had any problem at all with it..


I use 12-14g wire..Hope that helps..
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 09:15 PM
  #5  
TTBear's Avatar
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Wow. Fast replies. You guys rock.

Ummm, sorry to sound like a mildly retarded slug, but can you guys elaborate as to EXACTLY what a "relay", is (pics would be great).

Thanks again!!!!!
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 09:34 PM
  #6  
2 8's AKA Jeepbeats's Avatar
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Welcome to the board! Here is some info: http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp#rtol

Hope that helps. Here is an explanation from MR2NR, another member on the board:

"Use a Bosch relay 20/30 amp(about $5.00)

pin 86 - input from stereo remote on.
pin 30 - +12 volts ignition - fuse this line, 3 amps should be fine.
pin 85 - ground.
pin 87 out to amplifiers.
pin 87a - not used."
Old Apr 12, 2005 | 09:24 AM
  #7  
TTBear's Avatar
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Thanks for the welcome!

And THANKS for the info. Much, much appreciated. The links on relays are great.

I think I'll be back very shortly, but this time, it'll be about the M3....

Any suggestions??? It has the Harman Kardon "upgrade" (what a misnomer THAT is), 5.25 components in the front, 6.5 components in the rear, with two 6x9 "subwoofers" in the rear deck. It all runs at 2ohms, I think. Hoping to retain the stock head unit, for aesthetic purposes, and would like to keep the install as stealth as possible.

Thanks again everyone.
Old Apr 12, 2005 | 11:46 AM
  #8  
PEI330Ci's Avatar
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TTBear,

I've done a full build up in an E46 Coupe. Started with the car striped to the frame...back together mostly....still working on stuff. I would stick with speakers that fit the stock locations....big hassle the other way.

PM me if you want more details.

Adam
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