VWdude

not sure if anyone cares as I have gotten very few responses, i hope people are just watching and enjoying the pics, but heres an update:
So this is the first time this has happened to me. I cant get my fiberglass piece back into the trunk. Usually I am pretty good about making it in a shape that will give me easy access, but combining the large amount of obstacles in the way and the fact that I was making this box pretty large, I have backed myself into a corner. I kept trimming here and there with no luck. I could keep trimming and get it, but before I know it I will be down to a 1 cuft box.

So with that said, I put the fiberglass aside (i will revisit it if the dyn sub doesnt work out) and I am making my first IB setup. I know that I need to seal it all the way around the baffle, and I am also doing something to keep stuff in my trunk from slamming into my sub (and shorting it). This is the first part of it, but I plan to have this done today.

Dukk

I would try the sub out at this point before you go any further. You should be able to tell if this is going to work for you or if you need to go back to a conventional enclosure or change the woofer.

I don't like to see amps mounted upside down - especially a beauty like yours. It fits great where you have it and as long as it doesn't overheat I suppose it's fine but that's just a nit pick from me.

VWdude

Thanks for the feedback. Its almost done anyways so I will know before the end of the day if it will work. Also, the amp is doing well there. I was the same way, but considering the heat sinks are on the sides and the fans inputs and outputs are not blocked i feel ok with it there. Looking back, if I knew i was doing the sub this way i could have mounted it on the IB baffle board, but it gets more air this way anyways.

OK so an update...Im still trying to decide what I want to do to protect my subwoofer from flying debris (strollers, tool bag, etc) but I should have some answers in a matter of hours on how this sub sounds in an IB setup. Im just waiting on the glue to dry before covering the panel for a finished look.

VWdude

Ok well its done. Turned out OK. If i decide to keep this setup then I will do some finishing touches to clean it up a bit. I really need to tune as the sub doesnt appear to be doing much, but i know that its getting some signal. I know its not going to be loud, but so far its barely noticeable, so I think with some tuning I can take care of that. if I cant get any volume out of it then I will write to off as a waste of time (and a few bucks) and move on to building my fiberglass box for a more reasonable sub.









Some of the tweaks that I will do is finish making the speaker grill, and do something about protecting the back of the sub.

VWdude

Hm so I haven't updated this in a long time. The Dyn sub didn't work out. I got a Phoenix gold xmax12. Also, I got a JBL Ms-8, custom made RCAs, and went active on the Dyn components.

I am still finishing my ZPA restoration but I built my new install around using it.






Inline fuse


MS-8 hidden




Sub hidden in the other side

JohnnyRock1588

iTrader: (22)

Looks great man! good work

VWdude

thanks.

Shimano

Where did you run the power wire through the firewall? I can't find a boot anywhere. Also where did you put your ground?

dananton485

If you have an automatic transmission, your in luck. There is an existing rubber plate in place where the top of the clutch pedal hydrollic assembly would normally go. Its hidden under some padding that you will have to pull back. So first you need to remove the trim plastic panel over the pedal area, pull the padding down, then on the firewall the is some padding carpet to pull back out of the way. There is a Passat video on you tube that led me to the idea. I am going to post a video later after I edit it. Other notes: You will also see a couple of bolts sticking out they are spaced about 3" apart where normally the manual transmission clutch pedal assembly would be mounted. This will help you find the location. On the engine side of the bay I highly suggest removing the battery and surrounding plastic battery tray walls. This makes it super easy to feed the cable in. I drilled a hole and installed a gromet on the OEM factory rubber peice but you could just drill the appropriate size hole in the rubber and do that. PS be careful when removing the rubber oem grommet if you push it through to the engine bay side like I did the only way to get to it is to remove the battery. In the end the few extra minutes it took to remove the battery paid off for me. Also another tip is the large fuse box to the right of the battery if you take the cover off you will notice a blank extra unused power terminal. This is facing you towards the front. I tested it with a voltmeter and verified it provides 12.2 volts. This is where you want to hook up your power wire for the amp. Not directly on the battery that is the amateur way. You will still need to fuse your power cable. Also there is not nut in place there but it is a standard m5 nut you can get at any hardware store. Sorry for the long reply hope it helps