Pop
03-31-2007, 07:19 PM
#2
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 42
pop
This is a good thread. I've had the same problem with some amps in my install. Took my soundstream reference amp in for service-checks out fine-still pops at at times at power up-dunno why. My other reference has no pop at all????go figure????
Maybe a characteristic of some amps- no soft turn on/off circuit.
Hope there is more input on this subject.
cheers
Maybe a characteristic of some amps- no soft turn on/off circuit.
Hope there is more input on this subject.
cheers
03-31-2007, 10:08 PM
#4
Originally Posted by FusionMadsen
This happens to me only when I power down the amps with the car off.
i think my eq sends a big pop to my amp as it goes off ( i think i need a relay at my EQ ,so it goes off 1st ) or that flipped do i need the amp go off 1st
so if i do a relay where would you try ?
if my gains are to high do it ?
i have not had time to play with the set up or look at it
03-31-2007, 10:24 PM
#6
so what i'm thinking (and i have not look into this yet ) if my EQ sends a pop to the amp as it goes off i need the amp to go off befor the EQ
will a relay give me that time
or
do i need to look at something i missed
will a relay give me that time
or
do i need to look at something i missed
04-13-2007, 10:35 AM
#8
2000 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,026
1. A poor ground can cause a power-down pop. If the ground is bad, the amp won't be able to dump the voltage as quickly as it picks it up. Then when the amp goes off, it make take a second or too to 'unload' that extra power keeping the amp on a little bit longer than the rest of the system creating a 'pop' as the signal from the HU drops. (I had this happen to my install in my old Subaru, and displayed the same symptom as Fusion Madsen described - power down with engine off - I'm not sure why the difference between on and off, but when I repaired my amp grounds and the factory chassis - body ground the problem stopped)
Other reasons for popping:
2. Connecting the amp remote to the wrong power source - most common mistake is connecting it to the car's ACC (accessory) wire. This means that the head unit does NOT control when the amp turns on, rather the ignition controls when the amp turns on and off. This can cause the amp to turn on before the HU sends signal to the RCA causing a power-up pop. Likewise, the amp may stay on longer than the HU causing a power-down pop when the RCA loses signal from the HU.
3. I can't think of 8 others to make a top ten list
As for the discussion about EQs and amps, if you want the EQ to stay on longer, isolate it with a relay, try and place a small capacitor in the line. When the relay goes off, the remote line has no connection with the rest of the system and then the capacitor should take a few seconds extra to drain keeping the EQ on.
This might not solve the problem if the pop originates in the HU.
Other reasons for popping:
2. Connecting the amp remote to the wrong power source - most common mistake is connecting it to the car's ACC (accessory) wire. This means that the head unit does NOT control when the amp turns on, rather the ignition controls when the amp turns on and off. This can cause the amp to turn on before the HU sends signal to the RCA causing a power-up pop. Likewise, the amp may stay on longer than the HU causing a power-down pop when the RCA loses signal from the HU.
3. I can't think of 8 others to make a top ten list
As for the discussion about EQs and amps, if you want the EQ to stay on longer, isolate it with a relay, try and place a small capacitor in the line. When the relay goes off, the remote line has no connection with the rest of the system and then the capacitor should take a few seconds extra to drain keeping the EQ on.
This might not solve the problem if the pop originates in the HU.
04-13-2007, 11:23 AM
#9
Originally Posted by maltesechicken
1. A poor ground can cause a power-down pop. If the ground is bad, the amp won't be able to dump the voltage as quickly as it picks it up. Then when the amp goes off, it make take a second or too to 'unload' that extra power keeping the amp on a little bit longer than the rest of the system creating a 'pop' as the signal from the HU drops. (I had this happen to my install in my old Subaru, and displayed the same symptom as Fusion Madsen described - power down with engine off - I'm not sure why the difference between on and off, but when I repaired my amp grounds and the factory chassis - body ground the problem stopped)
Other reasons for popping:
2. Connecting the amp remote to the wrong power source - most common mistake is connecting it to the car's ACC (accessory) wire. This means that the head unit does NOT control when the amp turns on, rather the ignition controls when the amp turns on and off. This can cause the amp to turn on before the HU sends signal to the RCA causing a power-up pop. Likewise, the amp may stay on longer than the HU causing a power-down pop when the RCA loses signal from the HU.
3. I can't think of 8 others to make a top ten list
As for the discussion about EQs and amps, if you want the EQ to stay on longer, isolate it with a relay, try and place a small capacitor in the line. When the relay goes off, the remote line has no connection with the rest of the system and then the capacitor should take a few seconds extra to drain keeping the EQ on.
This might not solve the problem if the pop originates in the HU.
Other reasons for popping:
2. Connecting the amp remote to the wrong power source - most common mistake is connecting it to the car's ACC (accessory) wire. This means that the head unit does NOT control when the amp turns on, rather the ignition controls when the amp turns on and off. This can cause the amp to turn on before the HU sends signal to the RCA causing a power-up pop. Likewise, the amp may stay on longer than the HU causing a power-down pop when the RCA loses signal from the HU.
3. I can't think of 8 others to make a top ten list
As for the discussion about EQs and amps, if you want the EQ to stay on longer, isolate it with a relay, try and place a small capacitor in the line. When the relay goes off, the remote line has no connection with the rest of the system and then the capacitor should take a few seconds extra to drain keeping the EQ on.
This might not solve the problem if the pop originates in the HU.
but
#1 i will play with (i dod have a neg line to the battery to the amps so maybe)
#2 i do not see it on how i wired it
#3 beer #4 lack of sleep #5
