Sinemeup

I would suggest trying to figure out how to seal your doors up well before you completely deaden everything (talking from experience here) this way it isn't an afterthought and you don't have to backtrack... getting those doors sealed up is nearly as important as the deadening itself.

Everytime I tear the car down again, I'm always finding things that I wish I had done better/different in the first place, guess that means I'm learning... I find most of my best work is put into someone else's install

d4rin

Thanks for the help guys, I'll let you know when it's all done.

Dukk

^ If you're up for the experiment, you should seal and deaden one door and install the speaker. Then install the other speaker straight up on the factory metal on the other door. Play both and see for youself if it is worth treating the second door

Brendonius

I like that idea. Post your results if you end up going that route!

mack_g

i used blueskin which is for waterproofing windows in construction. it was very cheap alternative. the no name stuff is even cheaper.

sheathensemble

Anyone ever used sound absorbing insulations in their cars before? I know Home depot sells a product called safe and sound. I used similar products in my home studio, with great success. It has a very good NRC rating, do you think that stuff would help any? ps it's extremely cheap...

danyman

iTrader: (1)

it works just be careful.. make a mess and thats the way ur car will look like... and use low expantion only the other one will buckle ur metal

sheathensemble

Yea i am going to try that "safe and sound" stuff in my car soon. But first i need to get my speaker situation happening. by the looks of it you can get enough to do probably 20 cars for 40 bux lol. cheap cheap cheap...

JohnVroom

Sound absorbing products are vastly different from the sound damping products common in car audio(dynamat, second skin etc.) Sound absorbing products are typically open cell foams (urethane, melamine) that are similar in construction to pillow foam. Other common materials are fiberous and work better than foams (fiberglass, thinsulate). The thing with all of these sound absorbing products is the band of sound energy they absorb which is typically over 1000 or 2000 Hz which is not the typical problem in a car.

Should they be used... YES! But they are used in different locations than dynamat and if over done give an erie 'tomb like' sound to the car. I use them religiously. Also they can improve the SB of the car (sound penetration into the car) through constrained layer damping (one layer of a heavy material, one layer of foam, one layer of pliable damping material)

sheathensemble

I agree on the tomb like anti ambience, my studio is plastered in 703.

http://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm

Safe and sound can be found at that link, under ROXUL. It gives a good break down of its absorbent characteristics all across the frequency range.

Just thought i would throw this out there, Cheers mates!