I've used this stuff http://www.cascadeaudio.com/prod/vb5.html to cushion door lock mechanism rods to keep them from rattling...and it does work wonders!

 

Guys, BMW cheats. They don't use rods.

They have a cable system similar to what is used for brakes on a pedal bike.

NO rattle

 

I will try and see what I can do with that problem, right now though my sub can't keep up with my front stage, so it sounds better when it at a higher volume than when the volume is low......which is why I think an EQ will help clean up it's directionality.

 

Is that stuff similar to weather stripping with better adhesive and in patches instead of strips?

Is there an industrial strength matt of weather stripping material available anywhere?

[ October 22, 2004, 09:37 PM: Message edited by: Kool ]

 

This stuff is kinda like neoprene with an adhesive backing, it holds up way better against parts which need to move all the time vs. foam insulating tape....it's a lot denser too.

And Adam, right you are, but for everyone else the vb5 works wonders...

Did you see the new composite product on the Cascade site ...for between two layers of fiberglass, kicks & sub boxes etc http://www.cascadeaudio.com/pdf/tech...ech%202004.pdf

 

Yup

SSSHHHH

 

The problem is that they are floating in a large cavity in my door.

I tried sealing the cavity with a 1/4" piece of MDF, and then covered it with 2 layers of brown bread. It made the rattling less audible, but it still drives me crazy if I hear it at all and then all I can concentrate on is the rattling noice, even if it isn't very loud! lol It kinda ruins the experience for me.

I am now faced with cutting the brownbread around the edges as well as the silicone that is holding the MDF in place, and then removing the MDF to try something else with the rods.

I sure wish I didn't make them so hard to access! lol

[ October 23, 2004, 10:14 AM: Message edited by: Kool ]

 

I recomend you spend some time adding a few layers of aluminum backed deadener- inside your door and directly behind your speaker----It gives you a more PUNCHY mid-bass and really get's alot louder than with a bare metal door. I'm glad I sacrifuiced the time to add a few layers of deadener on my door...do you like the way a speakers sounds like in a tin can? </font>[/QUOTE]Good advice, thank you, and naw, my system sucks for SQ right now. I'm used to having my front end in kick panels and now I've got an AM radio-like front stage AND THE DOORS ARE RATTLING AT 1/2 VOLUME TOO!! [img]graemlins/cry.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/cry.gif[/img] Note: My focals are mounted right tight to the door frame with 3/4 inch spacers and they actually fit under the factory door skins.

But you sparked an idea! I'm always saying how nice it would be to have my car stereo sound like my home stereo...so why no cover the backsides of the doors with 1 inch insulation??? I know there is room for quite abit in my doors...

I wonder if insulation can mold.. Anybody know anyone who has done anything like this? </font>[/QUOTE]I'm writing this for other beginners like myself who like to read about other peoples experiences with techniques and products.

Okay, I went out and bought some Dynamat and applied a square foot around each speaker opening in the door and another sqaure foot behind each speaker on the outer door skins.

RESULTS:

1) The vibrating sounds that were overwhlemingly eminating from the doors at half volume were 100% gone!! Interestingly, it seems that it was totally due to my removal of the plastic sheet of white poly that covered each door behind the door skin.

2) I now had different vibrating sounds eminating at about 3/4 volume, and I could hear an audible difference in better mid-bass kick from the 6.5 K2s.

3) After removing and reinstalling the door skins 5 times to test and isolate the remaining vibrations (using small pieces of spare Dynamat strategically placed) I can now crank it up to full volume with 99% of the vibration gone. The remaining vibrations are emitting from the door locks and handles etc, which I can do nothing about.

What I learned as an amateur:

a) Dynamat works
b) Kick panels are awesome because you don't have to muk around with door vibrations.
c) It is important to stage-tune my system, that is, disconnect the subs and rear fills to tune the front stage, then do only the rear stage, then together to emphasize the front stage, then introduce the subs to warm things up. So now it sounds rich in sound (although I feel it could use some bass-kick up front).
d)I'm not giving up on my idea to build my doors like ported house speaker cabinets (since I cannot possible seal the doors 100%) WITH insulation to provide sound dampening. I believe this would remove some mild harshness without equalizing all the midrange frequencies out.