Sound deadening doors!
www.solen.ca
click accessories then plastic parts ,then scroll down and you should see them.dynaudio made them to but now I think it's only scanspeak that has those
[ December 22, 2004, 10:57 PM: Message edited by: newfinish ]
click accessories then plastic parts ,then scroll down and you should see them.dynaudio made them to but now I think it's only scanspeak that has those
[ December 22, 2004, 10:57 PM: Message edited by: newfinish ]
Sorry to dig up an old thread (a good one) but I was wondering if the Scan-Speak membranes shown above would help in the doors of my Yj? I am running Infinity 6000CS mids, and the doors are fairly small, volume wise. Anyone in the Vancouver area sell those? Also, is this the clay DUKK was referring to? : http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...urrency=1&SID=

The 1 lb block of Super Sculpey® is ideal for designer prototypes (can be used on armatures), carving bases, and general modelling, since it is a completely dead material that models well, is not brittle after baking and is very chip resistant. It comes in a peach color, but can be mixed with colored Sculpey or detailed with acrylic paints. Can be power carved or sanded after baking.
[ January 08, 2005, 04:24 PM: Message edited by: Jeepbeats ]

The 1 lb block of Super Sculpey® is ideal for designer prototypes (can be used on armatures), carving bases, and general modelling, since it is a completely dead material that models well, is not brittle after baking and is very chip resistant. It comes in a peach color, but can be mixed with colored Sculpey or detailed with acrylic paints. Can be power carved or sanded after baking.
[ January 08, 2005, 04:24 PM: Message edited by: Jeepbeats ]
^^^That stuff looks familiar. Although for our type of application, you don't have to "Bake" it after applying it.
With regard to the membranes:
They are used to decrease box volume. While they could be used directly behind a midrange driver, I suspect their restrictive nature would inhibit lower frequency response. How were you thinking of using these in your Jeep?
Man, this thread just keeps going....and going...and...
With regard to the membranes:
They are used to decrease box volume. While they could be used directly behind a midrange driver, I suspect their restrictive nature would inhibit lower frequency response. How were you thinking of using these in your Jeep?
Man, this thread just keeps going....and going...and...
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That's the stuff. Dukk likes Lee Valley
What are you trying to get Jeepdood? Deeper, more solid midbass. Power power power [img]graemlins/headbang.gif[/img]
Oh and a nice dead door with a sturdy mounting surface helps too [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
What are you trying to get Jeepdood? Deeper, more solid midbass. Power power power [img]graemlins/headbang.gif[/img]
Oh and a nice dead door with a sturdy mounting surface helps too [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
Thanks guys! I get pretty good response from my mids, I have door panels made from 3/4" MDF and carpetted. They are screwed in to the factory door panel very tightly, in multiple places. I have done multiple layers of sound deadening inside the door, and on the back of the factory door panel also. Sounds pretty good, but I still get a few buzzes, and my outside door handles buzz also. I took my door mirrors apart and stuffed polyfill behind them, as the plastic mirror was buzzing against the housing. I was just curious if putting those membranes inside the door, behind the magnet, maybe mounted to the metal of the inner door, would make a big sound difference. I am running a Clarion amp to the setup, 100x2 rms, seems to work well.
What I am wondering is how many layers of deadening should I expect to do before I am buzz free? Hard to predict, I know, but would doing 5-8 layers on the metal right behind the magnet do any good? Or should I try to track down each and every individual buzz and wrap foam, etc, on it?
You post a very common problem. I was contacted by another person with a car like mine, and even after duplicating most of what I did, his door rattles a bit.
My secret, is what you've already suggested. It takes time, but tracking down one buzz or rattle at a time is the only way. What you do to solve the rattle is vehicle deppendant. But I will say, that a roll of 5mm weather stripping can work wonders when applied to the right places.
I had an emencely difficult time with rattling in the rear of my car. So much so, that up untill the beginning of december, I had most of the rear trim panels removed from my car. Each panel had a unique problem, and while solving that problem seemed easy, how that panel then fit back and affected other panels became a problem. The same can be said of your door. I'll paint a clearer picture of my "noise" problem. I have 4 subs mounted in the rear deck of my car. There is a trim panel that naturally fits over these subs. However, you can imagine how much energy is pushed into this panel by my subs. The rear deck panel forms the support for my C-Pillar panels. (back corner panels) The C-pillar panels in turn snugly fit against my roof headliner. So with my subs playing with all the mentioned panels installed, I had a symphony of creaks, rattles, and buzzing from the rear of my car. (even the headliner was buzzing)
The use of the membrane mentioned above would not change your rattling problem by itself. Although it could reduce it by restricting your driver's low frequency response.
We should start a rattle thread, I know I've spent more time on this than most other aspects of my install.
Adam
My secret, is what you've already suggested. It takes time, but tracking down one buzz or rattle at a time is the only way. What you do to solve the rattle is vehicle deppendant. But I will say, that a roll of 5mm weather stripping can work wonders when applied to the right places.
I had an emencely difficult time with rattling in the rear of my car. So much so, that up untill the beginning of december, I had most of the rear trim panels removed from my car. Each panel had a unique problem, and while solving that problem seemed easy, how that panel then fit back and affected other panels became a problem. The same can be said of your door. I'll paint a clearer picture of my "noise" problem. I have 4 subs mounted in the rear deck of my car. There is a trim panel that naturally fits over these subs. However, you can imagine how much energy is pushed into this panel by my subs. The rear deck panel forms the support for my C-Pillar panels. (back corner panels) The C-pillar panels in turn snugly fit against my roof headliner. So with my subs playing with all the mentioned panels installed, I had a symphony of creaks, rattles, and buzzing from the rear of my car. (even the headliner was buzzing)
The use of the membrane mentioned above would not change your rattling problem by itself. Although it could reduce it by restricting your driver's low frequency response.
We should start a rattle thread, I know I've spent more time on this than most other aspects of my install.
Adam
Thanks Adam, for all of the info, I appreciate it. I do have some weatherstripping, looks like I will be spending my next Sunday off tracking down the rattles....
Ross
[ January 09, 2005, 09:53 AM: Message edited by: Jeepbeats ]
Ross
[ January 09, 2005, 09:53 AM: Message edited by: Jeepbeats ]


