1/0 welding cable cheap
I think the more strands the better. not just for flexability, but when you place alot of smaller wires side by side you esencially get the effect of one solid wire do you not? The smaller and more wires used, the less gap between them.
But whatever, everyone has their own oppinion. All I posted this for was cause I know there are a fair few people here who use this for their power cables and why not save some bucks while it's on sale.
But whatever, everyone has their own oppinion. All I posted this for was cause I know there are a fair few people here who use this for their power cables and why not save some bucks while it's on sale.
The funny thing is that the "electrician" didn't even mention how a wire works anyway.
Electrons don't travel through a wire, they travel on the wire, and so would be better to have 4000 strands because the current has the ability to flow easier. Say 350amps/4000 strands = 0.0875amps/strand.
And it's the cross sectional width and the lenght of the wire that will determine resistance.
But hey, what do I know [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img] , I'm not a electrician
Electrons don't travel through a wire, they travel on the wire, and so would be better to have 4000 strands because the current has the ability to flow easier. Say 350amps/4000 strands = 0.0875amps/strand.
And it's the cross sectional width and the lenght of the wire that will determine resistance.
But hey, what do I know [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img] , I'm not a electrician
I use the 1/0g now on sale at PA. Works great and it's flexible enough. For the price it cannot be beat and I cannot justify paying 3 or more times as much for a major audio brand's wire.
loudTDI - I have not found the jacket to break down unusually quick under the hood even without the loom. [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img]
loudTDI - I have not found the jacket to break down unusually quick under the hood even without the loom. [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img]
Actually lessy, where in the cross section of the wire the electrons travel is based on the frequency, DC runs in the center of the wire. The higher the frequency, the closer to the outer edge of the wire the electrons travel.
I use the PA welding cable as well. "Car audio" wire is junk, I have yet to find a car audio brand cable that is CSA approved or ULC listed, which means that it is illegal to install it. AND it means that your insurance can be cancelled for using it. another interesting fact is that welding cable jacketing is marked for it's temperature rating, thermal operating limits and it's voltage rating, car audio wire isn't.
I use the PA welding cable as well. "Car audio" wire is junk, I have yet to find a car audio brand cable that is CSA approved or ULC listed, which means that it is illegal to install it. AND it means that your insurance can be cancelled for using it. another interesting fact is that welding cable jacketing is marked for it's temperature rating, thermal operating limits and it's voltage rating, car audio wire isn't.
Sassmaster, a quick, very quick as in easy to miss look at the CSA website showed no CSA standards as it applied to automotive use. Now to my somewhat limited knowledge on the CSA, I am of the impression that anything to do with home or commercial electrical work must be CSA approved. Please provide some link to the automotive side of the CSA to backup your comments. This will further enlighten all of us.
[ March 19, 2005, 07:22 PM: Message edited by: MR2NR ]
[ March 19, 2005, 07:22 PM: Message edited by: MR2NR ]
I sell the larger 2/0 welding cable for the same price... I think. I'd hafta check me price lists on Monday.
But it's super-flexible, down to -40c. Dunno how many strands are in it, I've never bothered counting
but I assume it's at the high end of the range...
But it's super-flexible, down to -40c. Dunno how many strands are in it, I've never bothered counting
but I assume it's at the high end of the range...
yea I dont know about saftey ratings but other then that sassmaster is on track...
More strands means more DC resistance... it should be obvious why... and no skin effect dosent have anything to do with it....
Now we arnt talking a huge difference here... however as strand count increases so does surface to area ratio of the wire which makes it more prone to corrosion.... its not uncommon to take old wire from under the hood of a vehicle and find not only corrosion through the strands at the connection, but up under the jaket as well... sometimes several inches up!
This can increase resistance dramatically and can cause oxidation (ie burnt strands) when large amounts of current are passed through it...
If youve taken steps to prevent this or dont think its going to be an issue in your ride then I wouldnt worry too much about it....
More strands means more DC resistance... it should be obvious why... and no skin effect dosent have anything to do with it....
Now we arnt talking a huge difference here... however as strand count increases so does surface to area ratio of the wire which makes it more prone to corrosion.... its not uncommon to take old wire from under the hood of a vehicle and find not only corrosion through the strands at the connection, but up under the jaket as well... sometimes several inches up!
This can increase resistance dramatically and can cause oxidation (ie burnt strands) when large amounts of current are passed through it...
If youve taken steps to prevent this or dont think its going to be an issue in your ride then I wouldnt worry too much about it....
Originally posted by MR2NR:
Sassmaster, a quick, very quick as in easy to miss look at the CSA website showed no CSA standards as it applied to automotive use. Now to my somewhat limited knowledge on the CSA, I am of the impression that anything to do with home or commercial electrical work must be CSA approved. Please provide some link to the automotive side of the CSA to backup your comments. This will further enlighten all of us.
Sassmaster, a quick, very quick as in easy to miss look at the CSA website showed no CSA standards as it applied to automotive use. Now to my somewhat limited knowledge on the CSA, I am of the impression that anything to do with home or commercial electrical work must be CSA approved. Please provide some link to the automotive side of the CSA to backup your comments. This will further enlighten all of us.
you missed all the csa stamps on your equipment
me i won't buy it unless it has the csa stamp on it
so for now im using a inverter with home equipment


