Hi im new To CCA ( amplifier problem as well)
#4
It Blows a fuse as soon as a turn my car on. assuming i have a fuse in it. So i have two jl audio 12 inch sub woofers. Both powered by a Mobile Authority TA1501 amp each. They both have their own amp. So i'm running A Mobile Authority amp to a jl audio 12 inch w1. And the other one is a Mobile Authority amp to a jl audio 12 inch w0. Hence why they are not bridged. Now i installed everything myself.
It was working perfectly fine for a month and a half-ish. Up until about a week ago i noticed one sub wasn't running anymore. ( i believe the w0 which i think is blown somehow as well) Now the amp that is hooked up to the possibly blown w0 isn't working. it constantly blows fuses. i have tried un hooking the w0 cause i heard that if the sub is blown it might try to draw more power than it needs to.(dont understand that) and after unhooking the w0 it still blew its fuse. its a 10 amp fuse. which is on the other amplifier
which is still working perfectly fine.
It was working perfectly fine for a month and a half-ish. Up until about a week ago i noticed one sub wasn't running anymore. ( i believe the w0 which i think is blown somehow as well) Now the amp that is hooked up to the possibly blown w0 isn't working. it constantly blows fuses. i have tried un hooking the w0 cause i heard that if the sub is blown it might try to draw more power than it needs to.(dont understand that) and after unhooking the w0 it still blew its fuse. its a 10 amp fuse. which is on the other amplifier
which is still working perfectly fine.
#7
PM me if you're interested.
#8
A quick update for anyone having similar problems.....
Gentleman brought the car around today so I had a lookie see.....
Unhooked the speaker attached to the fuse popper.....coil tested OK, speaker moved fine on the battery test...
Fixed 1 marginal ground point for both amps and noticed the plastic dividers between the screws to attach the power, ground and remote wires were a little beat-up. I wanted to eliminate any possible shorts on the casing since it is made of nice shiny chrome plated metal so I replaced some of the power, ground and remote wires being very careful to eliminate any stray strands of wire on those connections.
Got that far and the amp in question was still popping fuses wired to the sub or not.
Tested 2nd amp on both speakers, it worked fine ssoooo.....
Conclusion is the fuse popper has an internal short and has been removed from the program.
Gentleman is now running only one of the subs, but a couple other issues and possible solutions have been discussed and will be taken care of in due time.....
Well well.....the counter says this is my 2,000th post......in only 10 years....
Guess I still have a ways to go to catch up to Dukk.....
Gentleman brought the car around today so I had a lookie see.....
Unhooked the speaker attached to the fuse popper.....coil tested OK, speaker moved fine on the battery test...
Fixed 1 marginal ground point for both amps and noticed the plastic dividers between the screws to attach the power, ground and remote wires were a little beat-up. I wanted to eliminate any possible shorts on the casing since it is made of nice shiny chrome plated metal so I replaced some of the power, ground and remote wires being very careful to eliminate any stray strands of wire on those connections.
Got that far and the amp in question was still popping fuses wired to the sub or not.
Tested 2nd amp on both speakers, it worked fine ssoooo.....
Conclusion is the fuse popper has an internal short and has been removed from the program.
Gentleman is now running only one of the subs, but a couple other issues and possible solutions have been discussed and will be taken care of in due time.....
Well well.....the counter says this is my 2,000th post......in only 10 years....
Guess I still have a ways to go to catch up to Dukk.....
Last edited by BigRedGuy; 10-16-2010 at 09:44 PM. Reason: A watershed moment......lol
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04-30-2008 08:58 PM