1st thing, NEVER GO TO CUSTOME AUDIO RADIO in Whitby.
2003 Escalade, sub and battery behind 3rd row
amps under second row for lenght purposes.
Any how these are the components:
PPI PC2150(JL W7), PPI PC2100(Eclipse Comp set.), Audio Control 3.1. Now we were warned that this system would draw big power so we agreed to purchase a yellow top. To make a long story short [4gauge] front battery >> 100amp fuse breaker(too small?)to Yellow top. [4gauge] yellow top >> 80amp AGU >> Distribution block housing (2)80amp AGU split to each amp.

The breaker switch opens after about 2minutes of playtime and yellow top dies out everytime. Ive taken the car back 4 times and these fools still cant get it right! WTF do I do!
*Gas is expensive drivin out to whitby 2 times in one day for them to say dont play the system for 20minutes and let it charge up!

 

soon as the breaker blows you get no battery charging, so I"d #1 make them put 1/0 between the front and rear batteries, #2 make them put in at least a 200 amp fuse under the hood, and #3 make them upgrade the rest of the power wire as well.

 

^^^^ and then pronounce them (insert name here)and needing a little aid. If the combined amplifiers draw is over the value of the breaker up front it will open. The other issue here is maybe the power wire is grounding out (let's hope not). IMO, a second battery is not going to be helping things out in this case as all it is is a second load for the alternator to keep charged. If they recommended a second battery, from what I read they recommended it because of the draw of the system. Well a second battery will help you out when the vehicle is not running but not for long by the sounds of it. When the vehicle is running, the alternator is running the electrical system, then charging the primary battery and now is tasked to charge a second battery. The battery is not creating power for you, it is more than likely placing a bigger strain on the alternator.

I would remove that battery or if I am going to keep it, get a battery isolator so that it keeps itself separate from the front battery before it takes it out as well. Next I would smack the installer upside the head, then I would replace the breaker with something larger (a breaker of the same size should also be at the other end of the power wire as well, near the second battery), I would upgrade my wire guage to something that met the demands of the current draw next. I would ensure that I have a smokin good ground with as low a resistance return reading as possible. Then I would make sure the installer knows what he did wrong, that he has learned from it so that no other people have issues like this.

The old adage I guess, if there is something wrong you bash them but if all is well then nothing is ever said. Maybe the installer was arookie and just did not know better, give the guy a chance to learn from the things that we post here and you take into him.

[ February 19, 2005, 01:29 PM: Message edited by: MR2NR ]

 

for 600 watts?

Something strange is going on here.

 

AGU fuses SUCK...get rid of them and you'll solve the problem if everything else is OK.
IMO they aren't even good if your driveway is on a slant....Too small to put behind the back tire to stop the car from rolling into the street!

 

I have seen gm vehicles with a 63 ohms resistance from the factory, measure from the grounding point to the battery...should be less the 3 ohms. Alot of people over look this...let me know.

 

James, I too have seen that reading and worse yet no matter how many times I preach about this, people, even installers just don't get the drift.
Now if only I can get Dukk to agree to other things...