SheHateMe

Hey guys, this new guy to car audio once again. I am currently in the works on putting my system together. Now I already know I need to get a new battery. I have seen a lot of people stick and swear by the optima batteries, so now heres my question. Im not running a absolute die hard system (well I guess thats how you look at it). I have my speakers running off the deck, than a Kenwood915D 1000 watt RMS Amp, pumping 2 15" kicker CVR's (I think they are the 2005 model). Either way, the optima website recommends the Red25 and Red 75/35 (those are the part numbers, group 25O for the first, and 75DTO for the second. My current ride is a 92 Honda Accord EX-R 4dr). I have seen most car audio users use the yellow tops. So heres my next question. Can I just grab any old yellow top and throw it in? If so which would be the best for me?

Next huge question. I am considering running a cap, for the simple fact that I don't really wanna buy a new alternator just this second. I'd rather put this one through it's paces, than put a new one on it. So heres the question, how do you correctly install a Cap? I read on the back of the package, you grab the light bulb thing that came with it, make sure you have a solid connection between the wire coming from the battery, and a wire from the amp, once the light, lights up, turn the car off and complete the connection. Now having a cap with your system, does it really take some of the strain off? Or does having the yellow cap really just make up for it?

Now should I also bother upgrading my stock alternator? For the most part thats a lot of amps going to the amp, but not nearly as much as I have seen from some peoples systems.

I understand it's a long post, but any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

LiViD-04GASE1

If you are going to run that kind of wattage, I personally would recommend upgrading the alternator. Most stock alternators only output 60 amps.

The basic math for calculating how many amps you need is this rough equation:

W(atts)/V(olts) = [A(mps)/2] = Left over amperage. A 60 amp alternator will give you around 400W maximum to play with using the 30 amps left over. An alternator with around 150 amps at full load can you give you the 1000W of power you need without killing your battery in a short amount of time. The average battery runs 13 volts DC.

As for batteries, anything with a deep cycle will work for the application. SVR also makes good batteries for audio applications.

worldind

iTrader: (17)

I'd say the best yellowtop for you would be the biggest you could manage to fit. Like mentioned, nearly any deep cycle will work for you. As for the cap, it's a subject of major debate. I'd recommend passing on the capacitor and going straight for the alternator. I had a 2.0 farad cap a few years back and it was a total waste of money... nothing changed.

LiViD-04GASE1

To me, the only thing that a capacitor a does is store temporary power between ignition cycles. It will cut down on the "popping" that occurs when you start the vehicle. I forgot to add that the new alternator should run between 1500-2500 RPM's. Don't go for the gold plated ones as they dissipate less heat. If you connect all that stuff and find out that your engine drops below 1200 RPM at idle, it's time for that alternator upgrade.

For some serious db competitions, some people will run more than one alternator in series. One to power the vehicles accessories, and the other to power the stereo equipment.

-m-

Look into Odyssey batteries. They are very small for a given amperage and IMO better built than the Optimas.

Tom.F.1

iTrader: (1)

Yes, a Cap will help a lot, even with the upgraded battery. I'd suggest a 2 farad for that application.

I have the same CVR 15's, but i have amps for front and rear as well.
That must sound pretty bad with only deck power, 18 wrms? and 1000 wrms on the subs.

I thought the yellow top was deep cycle, like for running the stereo with the car off.
I think the red will put out more juice faster with the car running.

Crescent

iTrader: (3)

Drop below 1200 rpm's at idle???
NOt every cars idle is the same.
My car runs totally mint & my idle is suppose to be at 800rpms at idle.
91 VW Corrado engine modded to w/ a 160amp alt.
My old 2001Toyota Celica idle was 900rpms...w/120 amp alt.

1200 seems damn high for idle for any car.....heck if idle is at 1200 rpms then just about every turbo car out there would have next to nil turbo lag.....NOT

SheHateMe

Thanks for a lot of replys. I kind of agree on the cap portion. The local audio guy said back in the day (early 90's, late 80's), cap's mattered a lot. But behold technology, it isn't as important anymore. As for the alternator I agree. You suggest a 150amp alternator? Whats the price range im looking at for that? And where would be the best place to purchase? I come from hamilton, but can also purchase in toronto since my parents are divorced. Part source possibly? Thanks for all your help.

As for the speakers sounding like garbage off the deck, not at all. I ran 2 infinity 35 rms 4 inch in the front, and 2 alpine 6x9's in the back (came with the car, can't recall the wattage) and my ears RING, I mean ring from the clearity they produce from the trance/rave/dance I listen to. Im not that die hard about my system except the subs lol. Once again thank you.

LiViD-04GASE1

Then get out of your imports and acquire some knowledge on V8's and V6's. Normal idle for my Grand AM is 1200 RPM on the 3400 LA1, and so was my '82 Camaro with the 5.0 LG4. Sure, the F22, the engine the O.P has is supposed to idle at 700-800 RPM. That doesn't apply to all import engines, depending on modifications.

DesolataX

iTrader: (1)

My CRV idle's at around 1100rpm, its only a 114hp inline 4. That reminds me, need to do a coolant flush.

One thing the OP should do (if he hasnt already) is do the big 3.

I would also suggest getting a 4ch amp, it will make your speakers sing rather than just move.