curcuit breaker or fuse block?
curcuit breaker or fuse block?
Which do you use coming off of your main battery?
I've decided to switch to a 250 amp curcuit breaker instead of a fuse.
Mainly because I've been using Maxifuses and maxifuse blocks and they seem to come loose after a good pounding..Shoulda got an anl block i know..
Do I NEED anymore fuses/breakers other than the breaker at the battery and the fuses in the amps? I've been using fused dist. blocks after the battery fuse/before the stiff. caps, but I want to switch to nonfused.All the fused blocks I have are maxifuse blocks
So..should each amp get fused from a dist block up to the amps fuse limit? eg...90amp fuse for a 3x30 fuse amp? Or can I skip it?
Do I need to get some anl blocks to help with the loose fuses?
Opinions on the breaker only idea?
I've decided to switch to a 250 amp curcuit breaker instead of a fuse.
Mainly because I've been using Maxifuses and maxifuse blocks and they seem to come loose after a good pounding..Shoulda got an anl block i know..
Do I NEED anymore fuses/breakers other than the breaker at the battery and the fuses in the amps? I've been using fused dist. blocks after the battery fuse/before the stiff. caps, but I want to switch to nonfused.All the fused blocks I have are maxifuse blocks
So..should each amp get fused from a dist block up to the amps fuse limit? eg...90amp fuse for a 3x30 fuse amp? Or can I skip it?
Do I need to get some anl blocks to help with the loose fuses?
Opinions on the breaker only idea?
Yankee
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,599
I am more of a fuse fan these days though a breaker is a sweet easy to use device.
As far as how many fuses and where they should be located... there should be a fuse for your stereo at every power source (in your case the large fuse by the battery), there should be a fuse to each individual load (if your using 30A fuses try AGU fuses they are small inexpensive and look good to boot).
The point of a fuse is two fold; first to limit damage to a faulty load (say an amp with a short) and second to protect the power supply from the deranged load (thus preventing damage to other electrical devices in the car due to voltage and current fluctuations)
click here> FUSES
As far as how many fuses and where they should be located... there should be a fuse for your stereo at every power source (in your case the large fuse by the battery), there should be a fuse to each individual load (if your using 30A fuses try AGU fuses they are small inexpensive and look good to boot).
The point of a fuse is two fold; first to limit damage to a faulty load (say an amp with a short) and second to protect the power supply from the deranged load (thus preventing damage to other electrical devices in the car due to voltage and current fluctuations)
click here> FUSES
Great article John, soo many things I've done wrong in the past....lol.. That covered everything I wanted to know.
Thanks, I'll be reading that a few times!!
Don't know CoreyC - but I can imagine!! Melted battery/engine bay?
Guess I'll run the breaker under the hood( i bought it already anyhow)
and leave the rest as it was until I get some AGU or ANL blocks.
Heck maybe I can "tighten" the clips for the maxifuses for now.
Cheers guys
Thanks, I'll be reading that a few times!!
Don't know CoreyC - but I can imagine!! Melted battery/engine bay?
Guess I'll run the breaker under the hood( i bought it already anyhow)
and leave the rest as it was until I get some AGU or ANL blocks.
Heck maybe I can "tighten" the clips for the maxifuses for now.
Cheers guys
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