Dumb little lights
#11
ohhh man!!!
Acid stripped? dang, won't be doin that.
Found this though
Clean the surface of the anodized aluminum using water, dish soap and a coarse brush. Rinse away all of the soap or you will have trouble with adhesion. Allow the surface to dry.
Pour etching primer into a 1-gallon painter' s pot. Fill it to no more than two-thirds capacity.
Apply the etching primer to the anodized aluminum using the 2- to 4-inch paintbrush. Allow the primer to dry for two full hours.
Clean the brush at least three times using mineral spirits.
Apply oil-based paint to the anodized aluminum in the same manner as you did the primer. Allow the surface to dry for two hours. Apply additional coats as necessary.
Still alot of messing around, but probably a little easier than acid stripping. Not really worried, if they come out crappy, I'll make a hidden amp rack instead...lol
Thanks for the heads up bro, got me to check on some things I hadn't thought of.
Acid stripped? dang, won't be doin that.
Found this though
Clean the surface of the anodized aluminum using water, dish soap and a coarse brush. Rinse away all of the soap or you will have trouble with adhesion. Allow the surface to dry.
Pour etching primer into a 1-gallon painter' s pot. Fill it to no more than two-thirds capacity.
Apply the etching primer to the anodized aluminum using the 2- to 4-inch paintbrush. Allow the primer to dry for two full hours.
Clean the brush at least three times using mineral spirits.
Apply oil-based paint to the anodized aluminum in the same manner as you did the primer. Allow the surface to dry for two hours. Apply additional coats as necessary.
Still alot of messing around, but probably a little easier than acid stripping. Not really worried, if they come out crappy, I'll make a hidden amp rack instead...lol
Thanks for the heads up bro, got me to check on some things I hadn't thought of.
#12
here's one more thing, acrylic enamel is better than than oil paint (i.e. polyurethane if just using an etching primer)
if you are up for the drive go to tempo aerospace in brampton they deal with all the chemicals you need for painting aluminum (hell with any chemical period) but the smallest amount of paint/primer you can get are in quart quantities and they charge a bit extra to do it in those quantities cause the manufacturers usually ship their products in gallon containers (which is the smallest)
also buy a spray gun, these guys also sell a cool little gun like the pro painters use which you can use pressure cartridges instead of using a gun with an air compressor
if you are up for the drive go to tempo aerospace in brampton they deal with all the chemicals you need for painting aluminum (hell with any chemical period) but the smallest amount of paint/primer you can get are in quart quantities and they charge a bit extra to do it in those quantities cause the manufacturers usually ship their products in gallon containers (which is the smallest)
also buy a spray gun, these guys also sell a cool little gun like the pro painters use which you can use pressure cartridges instead of using a gun with an air compressor
#13
I managed to find some time to get these done for the most part.
Soundstream - Polished off all the printed stuff on the top of the amp and replaced the centre cap with a plain black one, sourced from a cut down plastic dust cover...lol
- Replaced the back metal "Soundstream" plate with plexi
- painted up the "feet" to match the trim paint on the plexi
US Amps - Removed the original badge, taped the small light hole on the printed side
- puttied the hole and sanded smooth
- painted plate to match the sub box when it gets painted
So it ended up that I didn't cut the lights out, and I can still put the amps back to the original looks( minus the printing on the SS)
I'm happy with the looks for now, I guess I took the fast and easy way but .. no more dumb lil lights
Soundstream - Polished off all the printed stuff on the top of the amp and replaced the centre cap with a plain black one, sourced from a cut down plastic dust cover...lol
- Replaced the back metal "Soundstream" plate with plexi
- painted up the "feet" to match the trim paint on the plexi
US Amps - Removed the original badge, taped the small light hole on the printed side
- puttied the hole and sanded smooth
- painted plate to match the sub box when it gets painted
So it ended up that I didn't cut the lights out, and I can still put the amps back to the original looks( minus the printing on the SS)
I'm happy with the looks for now, I guess I took the fast and easy way but .. no more dumb lil lights
#15
Yeah, I've done that before with all three of the amps, but getting at the screws for the wires was always hell. So I needed a fix for that. Plus the lights were still were WAY too bright at night!!
Also the back of the Soundstream had a huge cut out "Soundstream" with another cutout of a turantula, basically I found both sides kinda cheesy to look at. Something had to change
We're gonna run the SS upside down again, but we're undecided wether to use a barrier strip just a few inches away from it, to be able to access the wires easier, or to use a hinge to "flip " it up to gain access to them..
Also the back of the Soundstream had a huge cut out "Soundstream" with another cutout of a turantula, basically I found both sides kinda cheesy to look at. Something had to change
We're gonna run the SS upside down again, but we're undecided wether to use a barrier strip just a few inches away from it, to be able to access the wires easier, or to use a hinge to "flip " it up to gain access to them..
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