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how to choose an amplifier ?

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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 03:58 PM
  #31  
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lol, neither of you can put out over 3000watts RMS though. to get that kind of power, you would need a much bigger a/b amp and definite power upgrade.
Old Sep 22, 2010 | 04:00 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by jstoner22
ahhh, see now you are just throwing words in there.

johns actual words were that there were no huge improvements.
he just got more than he thought he was going to.
nothing drastic goin on there:P
I was right there the moment he fired up the Neon and "I" couldn't believe the difference.
to "ME" I wouldn't own a Class "d' amp without trying it first
Old Sep 22, 2010 | 04:02 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by jstoner22
lol, neither of you can put out over 3000watts RMS though. to get that kind of power, you would need a much bigger a/b amp and definite power upgrade.
^^ hmm - I bet I can. I'll clamp my sundown 3500D next time and see what power she puts out.
Old Sep 22, 2010 | 04:24 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by avidedtr
^^ hmm - I bet I can. I'll clamp my sundown 3500D next time and see what power she puts out.

forgot you switched your amps. and you plan on running that without power upgrades?
my point is you cant have that power off a stock electrical setup.
with an efficient class d you can.
Old Sep 22, 2010 | 04:57 PM
  #35  
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i havent tryed the D class amp either to be honest,i've been told to stay in the a/b class since i'll be running some fairly decent speakers....
Old Sep 22, 2010 | 05:26 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by jstoner22
actually i believe that.

i have my leviathan running on a 20amp fuse, the kronos on a 20amp fuse.

and the make a ton of power. never popped anything.
I was agreeing with vubulu. My comment had nothind to do with fuses.

As for fuses, they can allow current through then what they are rated for for x amount of time. So a 25 amp fuze that doesn't blow doesn't mean the amp is never drawing more then the fuse rating.

Alternator wise, if it can't supply enough that is where the battery comes in, I am sure avidedtr can have much more then jusy 300 watts.
Old Sep 22, 2010 | 05:29 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by meducky
i havent tryed the D class amp either to be honest,i've been told to stay in the a/b class since i'll be running some fairly decent speakers....
That is like saying don't use multicore processors because they can't compute as well.

D class is all benefits.
Old Sep 22, 2010 | 05:47 PM
  #38  
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its not me btw that said not to go for a D class.... my audio guy said that i waisted my money on speakers like the ones i got if i went with a D class amp. those are his words. not mine.
Old Sep 22, 2010 | 08:45 PM
  #39  
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Do you think that the OP will notice a difference between a new class A/B and class D?

I've ran both and I like the sound of the D. Plus it doesn't get near as warm.

When it comes to SQ, avidedtr knows his stuff. After all, he is the current IASCA World Champion. Also keep in mind that SQ guys are freakish on detail (not a bad thing).
Old Sep 22, 2010 | 10:57 PM
  #40  
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Good luck OP, I'll bet you're more confused now than when you started this thread! just out of curiosity, are you going to be listening to your system primarily when you're driving? if so, then you're going to have a really tough time hearing differences in decent quality amps. Here are a couple of interesting reads. Draw your own conclusions after thoroughly reading them.

Stereophile: The Carver Challenge

Richard Clark Amplifier Challenge FAQ



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