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how to choose an amplifier ?

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Old 09-26-2010, 10:37 PM
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As a "slightly above average" consumer, you'll be happy with the LRX amps.

After my personal experience with the Hertz speakers, they love power. I always recommend going with more power than you need, and I'd also go with 2 amps rather than a five channel. Gives room to upgrade/downgrade later on.
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Old 09-27-2010, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by vrdublu
Go argue that one with Steven Mantz. There's a lot about car audio and "audio" in general that is b.s. Have a read at the zedaudiocorp.com website, lots of interesting reading material. The Leviathan will do rated power @ 4ohm load with a 30A fuse, @2ohms it doubles to a 60A. If you would like to listen to a sine wave all day long you will require a 105A fuse. Music is transient, this is where efficiency really plays a key role and this is the part that is not mentioned enough imho. I'm not saying all Class "D" amps are created equal, but I can say that the Zed Audio equipment made by Steven Mantz is quality stuff, and maybe power wise, sq sound, form factor, and flexibility make it the best amp on the market. So in short, right now at least, or until everyone starts copying his design, his amps are without equal imo.
There's a lot about car audio and "audio" in general that is b.s.
I agree.. and much of that is on amplifier manufacturers' websites..

Leviathan will do rated power @ 4ohm load with a 30A fuse
no. 900watts at 4 ohms with even 14volts does not equal 30amps with anyones calculator. Will it run on a 30amp fuse? I don't doubt it but, without a time disclaimer, you can't say it makes rated power with that fuse. It is misleading.

I don't care who you are, you have to follow the laws of physics?



Anyway, the point is not how awesome the Leviathan is. The important part of what you said is right in the middle of your post there..
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Old 09-27-2010, 03:55 PM
  #53  
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The leviathan really seems like a great amplifier, I agree to that and price wise at 600$ is by far the best deal I've seen so far moneywise. Also all the info someone can read is quite interesting. The leviathan , arc ks and audison lrx are my top 3 picks right now... 3 amps , 3 different categories ....

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Old 09-27-2010, 07:03 PM
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... small detail here, not all fuses are created equal. Maxi fuses pass a lot more current than they should for their rating compared to AGU, ANL, mini-ANL. some Maxi's passed 3x rated indefinitely.
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Old 09-28-2010, 03:14 PM
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^ which is why they say it 'runs on a 30amp fuse' rather than 'draws 30 amps' Again, minor point..

Smoke, mirrors, and audio FTW
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Old 09-28-2010, 04:46 PM
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Zed is just playing with words trying to make their equipment look like something revolutionary. They know like most of us that music signals require much less current than sign waves and really heavy bass notes, so they can tell you their amps are really efficient and only need a 30 amp fuse for 900 watts. The truth is virtually any full range class d amp will function perfectly fine with similarly small fuses. I've been running my 1500 watt system (rf power series which aren't even class d) for years on an 80 amp main fuse, and i've never blown it. Why? Because i listen to music with relatively little ultra low bass tones that have a long duty cycle. I'll bet if play organ tones really loud for a long time that i'll blow the fuse...but i won't and zed knows that too.
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Old 09-28-2010, 05:23 PM
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Denonite. Read zeds stuff before comenting on it..., his claim is that ALL amps are over fused and not that only his amps require small fuses.
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Old 09-28-2010, 10:47 PM
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hmmm...900 watts continuous with a 30 amp fuse. How long is continuous anyway?
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Old 09-29-2010, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by veeman
hmmm...900 watts continuous with a 30 amp fuse. How long is continuous anyway?
The point I was trying to make, and obviously missed by most is that the amp does 150rmsx6 @ 4ohms with a 30A fuse. I have already mentioned that music is not a sine wave but is transient, which means that more than likely the amp will do 10-20 watts continuous all day and hit high enough to average out 150rms, this is my guess only. The only part of that statement that may be misleading from Zed is, will the amp do 150w x 6 all channels driven? I didn't see that part specified. "RMS" does not mean continuous power. This is where most Audio companies mislead people into thinking they have more power than they really do. You can play with numbers in many ways to get whatever result you want, very similarly to "statistics". Zuki is another manufacturer that takes a different approach to rating his amps @ 10wx4 or 7wx6 etc.....There are plenty of people who have done reviews of Zuki amps that swear they are comparable if not more powerful then an amp rated @ 100x4 Rms from another manufacturer. So does that mean that Zuki doesn't know how to rate his amps? or does it mean he's more honest as to the capabilities of his amp? The point I was trying to make is that the amp sounds fantastic, draws little current, does not get hot even in the peak of summer, has a very small foot print and is more versetile than anything else. Power output is almost a non issue and numbers can be played with in any manner, and this amp puts out loads of power all day long. Dukk is right though, you can't get something out of nothing, but efficiency plays a big role in how much of the current you are requiring actually gets used in music reproduction and how much is used to heat your cars floorboards.

Last edited by vrdublu; 09-29-2010 at 04:31 AM.
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Old 09-29-2010, 01:49 PM
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I bought an amp today. I treated myself to a used audison lrx 4.1k I think my two pairs of components will be powered decently. now I have to find a nice little sub amp....

Last edited by meducky; 09-29-2010 at 01:52 PM.
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