Tego

I just purchased dual 12" Alpine Type R Subwoofers in a box, but the current amp I have is way underpowered for these subs.

Here are the specs on my current amp:
www.epinions.com/614140_Kenwood_100W_x_2_Amplifier_KAC_729S/display_~full_specs]Compare prices on Kenwood KAC-729S Car Audio Amplifier - Epinions.com

Here are the specs on the subwoofers:

Dual 4-ohm voice coils
Frequency response: 24-500 Hz
Power handling: 50-500 watts RMS
Peak power: 1,500 watts
Sensitivity: 87 dB
Bumped Backplate
Compound Radius Curve Pole Geometry
Custom Cast Aluminum Frame with Integrated Heat Transfer Plate
Designed and Engineered in the USA
Dual Progressive Oversized Nomex ?? Spiders
Dual Stacked Magnets
Extra Length Extended Pole
Flared Pole Vent
High Strength Brass Voice Coil Bobbin
Integrated Tinsel Lead Design
Kevlar Reinforced Pulp Cone
Magnetically Optimized Motor Structure (Pat. Pend.)
Oversized Parabolic Dustcap

After some searching/reading, I found that the ED Nine.1 is a favourite for a dual 12" Alpine Type R Subwoofers.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...products_id=44

Before I make the purchase for the ED NINe.1 amp, should I be fine running this amp (only amp in my car) with the stock battery (just replaced less than a year ago) and stock alternator for my dual Alpine Type R subwoofers? Should I upgrade my wiring kit for the amp or should I be fine for now with my current wiring kit. I believe its a 4 gauge kit, should I upgrade the fuse in the fuse holder?

Reason I ask is because I tried to run a similiar set up, pioneer amp and dual rockford fosgate subwoofers from best buy, I think that was the mistake from the beginning. Anyways, I had everything all wired up, went for a cruise, the music would shut off at high volumes. And also, if I'm playing my music loud with my car off, it would drain the crap out of my battery and I wouldn't be able to start her up. I was running the amp at a 1ohm load. So I took it to a local shop, they told me the amp was garbage. He said that a lot companies advertise that their amps are 1ohm stable but are full of , and thats the reason why my music was cutting out. Is he correct?

[i]con

im running 2 R types on a stock batt. & Alt. with 4Ga. wiring kit and my car does just fine. Maybe your last problem was with your amp , Maybe it was over heating or something?

DDnut

iTrader: (6)

yes he is right to a point.See subs don`t keep its ohms thruout the range they play some drop just a bit.So say it is rated at 4ohms(the sub) at 100Hz it may read 4ohms but at 50hz it maybe 3.6ohms and so on.So what could be happining is it is dropping just below the 1ohms enough to put the amp in to protect mode.It could be an under voltage problem as well.Less voltage means more heat and smoke to come.It could also be you are over driving the amp some have a shitty thing in them that will send an amp in to protect at a set voltage draw or voltage output.

Truth is it can be a ton of things and if the dealer know what he is talking about he should have said this and not try to just say scrap it(ya so you can buy from him now right)

Tego

I'm not buying the amp from him, I'm buying it directly from ED. So with the amp I want to buy, should I be fine, just swap amps pretty much?

DDnut

iTrader: (6)

yes the ED will run lower then 1ohm so it will be fine but more power then the Alpines can hold as that amp does in the 1200-1400 range

Tom.F.1

iTrader: (1)

that amp would be good. It'll draw close to 60 amps continous when cranked. And leave 60 amps for your can to run on? Can you alt do that?

And, i don't think its too much power. Headroom is a good thing!!, just keep it out of clipping.