Sound cutting in and out...
#21
The Big 3 wouldnt hurt to do but I highly doubt you woiuld need it with something under 500 watts.
I am not saying this couldnt help.
I am also saying this so I am subscribed to this thread I am interested in seeing what is wrong.
I have the same deck and never had this issue so I dont think it would be your remote wire.
Actually a quick thought for ya
If there is a slight chance its the remote wire (never know right?) take out the remote wire you have in now tape it off as it does have a current in it and you dont want it to spark while you do this test.
Take a small piece of wire run it from the power 12+ input of the amp with the battery wire still connected to it and run it to your remote wire.
Doesnt have to be big the same size wire you have for your remote wire will do. This will cause a constant voltage to your amp from the battery and then try playing your music for 45 minutes then turn it down and see if it cuts out.
If it doesn't then its your remote wire and that can easily be fixed .
Let me know.
Btw I am very bad at explaining things so if your having troubles with understanding what I ment let me know
I am not saying this couldnt help.
I am also saying this so I am subscribed to this thread I am interested in seeing what is wrong.
I have the same deck and never had this issue so I dont think it would be your remote wire.
Actually a quick thought for ya
If there is a slight chance its the remote wire (never know right?) take out the remote wire you have in now tape it off as it does have a current in it and you dont want it to spark while you do this test.
Take a small piece of wire run it from the power 12+ input of the amp with the battery wire still connected to it and run it to your remote wire.
Doesnt have to be big the same size wire you have for your remote wire will do. This will cause a constant voltage to your amp from the battery and then try playing your music for 45 minutes then turn it down and see if it cuts out.
If it doesn't then its your remote wire and that can easily be fixed .
Let me know.
Btw I am very bad at explaining things so if your having troubles with understanding what I ment let me know
#22
on the other side of the coin there are parts of the comment I like as there is a charge discharge cycle going on here not unlike EMF/ CEMF
this may be a great application for a capacitor (once again acting as a band aid for an inadequate electrical system) but I think larger power wire may be a better choice if the amp is too big for 8 gauge.... are ALL of the DC connections high quality/tight/ metal to clean metal?
this may be a great application for a capacitor (once again acting as a band aid for an inadequate electrical system) but I think larger power wire may be a better choice if the amp is too big for 8 gauge.... are ALL of the DC connections high quality/tight/ metal to clean metal?
#23
But if he is getting too high of voltage then bigger wire wont help at all. If anything make it worse.
Capacitor would steady the flow would it not? Making the ampe run of more constant 14 volts then it flux too much when turned down?
Capacitor would steady the flow would it not? Making the ampe run of more constant 14 volts then it flux too much when turned down?
#24
on the other side of the coin there are parts of the comment I like as there is a charge discharge cycle going on here not unlike EMF/ CEMF
this may be a great application for a capacitor (once again acting as a band aid for an inadequate electrical system) but I think larger power wire may be a better choice if the amp is too big for 8 gauge.... are ALL of the DC connections high quality/tight/ metal to clean metal?
this may be a great application for a capacitor (once again acting as a band aid for an inadequate electrical system) but I think larger power wire may be a better choice if the amp is too big for 8 gauge.... are ALL of the DC connections high quality/tight/ metal to clean metal?
It shows in the manual that if the voltage is constantly below 11 volts then I should install a 1farad cap. Honestly I'd rather buy a new battery and do the big 3 rather than buying a stupid cap...
All I have here is a clamp meter, I'll take it to the shop where I got it installed. I believe he has a multimeter...
I don't think it's the amp though, And the MTX tech support has been excellent. They gave me some good info and found my problems very odd. Once I look into the problem further I'll post here, I have a few days off so I have some time to mess around!
Last edited by d4rin; 03-25-2011 at 11:03 PM.
#26
I am curious to see what it will show!
#27
Just got it looked at, Put in a bass testing CD and cranked it. It didn't go below 11v but I didn't turn on the lights and the car was on. The lowest it would go was 11.3 volts with bass only.
The only way to really see is for me to upgrade the wires under the hood or buy a cap. This is a shitty situation.
BUT...One thing I do remember is the remote wire is on the RCA's and it was super thin, And the insulation on it was pure garbage. So It might be cracked or pinched. I will have to run some new wire for that...
The only way to really see is for me to upgrade the wires under the hood or buy a cap. This is a shitty situation.
BUT...One thing I do remember is the remote wire is on the RCA's and it was super thin, And the insulation on it was pure garbage. So It might be cracked or pinched. I will have to run some new wire for that...
Last edited by d4rin; 03-26-2011 at 03:34 PM.
#28
the situation that John is speaking of is very plausible,
to test for his theory do like you did last time and put a load on the alternator, then turn it down like you do when it cuts out. On your multimeter there should be a hold button or setting that will record the peak voltage. The theory being that when the music is turned down that the voltage will spike and may cause the amp to very quickly go into protect.
to test for his theory do like you did last time and put a load on the alternator, then turn it down like you do when it cuts out. On your multimeter there should be a hold button or setting that will record the peak voltage. The theory being that when the music is turned down that the voltage will spike and may cause the amp to very quickly go into protect.
#29
the situation that John is speaking of is very plausible,
to test for his theory do like you did last time and put a load on the alternator, then turn it down like you do when it cuts out. On your multimeter there should be a hold button or setting that will record the peak voltage. The theory being that when the music is turned down that the voltage will spike and may cause the amp to very quickly go into protect.
to test for his theory do like you did last time and put a load on the alternator, then turn it down like you do when it cuts out. On your multimeter there should be a hold button or setting that will record the peak voltage. The theory being that when the music is turned down that the voltage will spike and may cause the amp to very quickly go into protect.
First I'm going to replace the REM wire with a new one that is a good quality wire. The one that is on there now is VERY thin, So it might be pinched or damaged possibly. Also it wasn't long enough so when I got it close to the amp I had to connect a lower AWG wire to it.
So the next step will be replacing the remote wire, And if it's not that I will do the big 3 with 4AWG wire. And if that doesn't fix it then I'm guessing it's the amp...
#30
Darin your not going to solve it with your suggested improvements if thats what it is. Those are however all good ideas and I would still do them. My suggestion would be to try and measure the peak voltage at the amp, I am interested to see how high it goes as your car is also being subjected to the same voltage dip and spike. I would see about going to a local garage and asking them to test your alt/battery as it seems like there may be an issue with the alternators voltage regulator, This piece is important to all electrical devices in the vehicle.