Sound cutting in and out...

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03-27-2011, 09:07 AM

#31

d4rin

500 Watt CAFz'r

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Join Date: May 2007

Posts: 849

Quote:

Originally Posted by ndinadis

Darin your not going to solve it with your suggested improvements if thats what it is. Those are however all good ideas and I would still do them. My suggestion would be to try and measure the peak voltage at the amp, I am interested to see how high it goes as your car is also being subjected to the same voltage dip and spike. I would see about going to a local garage and asking them to test your alt/battery as it seems like there may be an issue with the alternators voltage regulator, This piece is important to all electrical devices in the vehicle.

Funny you say that, I've only had the car for a little over a year and I've already had to chance 2 headlight bulbs, A taillight bulb and 2 bulbs inside the car died also. And they care only has 125,000 KM's on it...

I'm going in for an oil change soon, I may as well ask them to test the alternator and check the battery.

I am not even sure what they use to test the alternator?

03-27-2011, 10:33 AM

#32

kygreen

50 Watt CAFz'r

Join Date: Sep 2009

Posts: 161

They have a hand held device that they use on battery checks it measures charging output with no electronics on in the car and then it gets you to turn everything on and it makes a decision if stuff is good or not its actualy really easy to do with the tester I'm pretty sure its not cheap and if I read right above Darin your using the tiny wire inside your RCA that's just suposed to be a ground loop so your RCA"s don't get interference not for REM :S

03-27-2011, 12:30 PM

#33

d4rin

500 Watt CAFz'r

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Join Date: May 2007

Posts: 849

I seen a battery tester at Canadian Tire but I bought a DMM instead

.

19$ for a Master Craft.

03-28-2011, 02:54 PM

#34

d4rin

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Join Date: May 2007

Posts: 849

I just tested the battery with the car off and it read 12.50 which is normal, Turned the car on with lights and the blower heater, Was stable and over 13. I did notice that once the fan turned on for the rad it would jump down to 5 really quick but climb back up.

So far that all seems normal. I pulled the deck out and checked the wires, The only problem I see is that the REM wire connect to the amp...There wasn't much wire inside the butt-connector because it was crimped very poorly. I pushed it in further and taped it for now until I install a new run for the REM, A 16AWG wire is what I will be using, The wire that came with my kit.