Alpine SWR-1022D, ported box... help?
03-24-2009, 12:39 AM
#1
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Alpine SWR-1022D, ported box... help?
Hi guys!
For Christmas, I got a Type-R 10", dual-2 ohm sub.
Originally, I was thinking of building a sealed .65cu.ft., but now I'm starting to entertain the idea of building a ported box.
Now, in the driver's guide, these are the optimum vented box numbers:
External box dimentions: 12.5" x 14.5" x 17.25"
Gross internal volume: 1.3 cu.ft.
Vent area: 11 cu.in. (11" x 1")
Vent length: 22"
Vent Displacement: 0.237 cu.ft.
Net internal Volume: 1 cu.ft.
Now, I've seen many people in various forums recommend going bigger (to others asking the same type of question: frex, 12"? 2 cu.ft.)
So, should I go with the nembers posted in the guide, or should I build it bigger?
also, Would a 1" wide port be wide enough?
For the record, since it's a dual-2, I plan on wiring each coil to its own channel on my amp, which would be set to mono.
For Christmas, I got a Type-R 10", dual-2 ohm sub.
Originally, I was thinking of building a sealed .65cu.ft., but now I'm starting to entertain the idea of building a ported box.
Now, in the driver's guide, these are the optimum vented box numbers:
External box dimentions: 12.5" x 14.5" x 17.25"
Gross internal volume: 1.3 cu.ft.
Vent area: 11 cu.in. (11" x 1")
Vent length: 22"
Vent Displacement: 0.237 cu.ft.
Net internal Volume: 1 cu.ft.
Now, I've seen many people in various forums recommend going bigger (to others asking the same type of question: frex, 12"? 2 cu.ft.)
So, should I go with the nembers posted in the guide, or should I build it bigger?
also, Would a 1" wide port be wide enough?
For the record, since it's a dual-2, I plan on wiring each coil to its own channel on my amp, which would be set to mono.
03-24-2009, 10:23 AM
#3
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 723
If you wire the sub's voicecoils to the amp in that fashion, the amp will see a 1 ohm load. Just make sure its capable of handling an impedance that low. I might be thinking about this wrong.
If its a 2 channel amp, set for mono, it will see 2 ohm per channel, but it'll take the incoming mono sub channel and set it out from both channels. In that case, you'd be fine.
What's the make and model of your amp?
As for the port width, 1" is too narrow. Generally, the ratio should be no more than 8:1, so you could use a 1" width, if your port was no more than 8" tall. The closer to square your opening is, the less amount of surface area you have in the port, which helps to make it sound better.
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31
I have the same woofer, by the way. Except its a dual 4 ohm model.
Use that link, and check out Rockford Fostage Box Wizard. I use both places for good information. If you get stuck, come back and ask.
If its a 2 channel amp, set for mono, it will see 2 ohm per channel, but it'll take the incoming mono sub channel and set it out from both channels. In that case, you'd be fine.
What's the make and model of your amp?
As for the port width, 1" is too narrow. Generally, the ratio should be no more than 8:1, so you could use a 1" width, if your port was no more than 8" tall. The closer to square your opening is, the less amount of surface area you have in the port, which helps to make it sound better.
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31
I have the same woofer, by the way. Except its a dual 4 ohm model.
Use that link, and check out Rockford Fostage Box Wizard. I use both places for good information. If you get stuck, come back and ask.
Last edited by TragicMagic; 03-24-2009 at 10:25 AM.
03-24-2009, 04:12 PM
#5
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jalat, That looks pretty close to what I'd like...
How wide is the port? how long are the two inner boards of the port?
If I build something like that, I'll probably go double-thickness on the front panel.
Is there anything (like resin, perhaps) that I can use to soak the wood around the driver hole, to keep it solid? (I had separation of the MDF around the driver hole in a previous box I'd built)
I might also use T-nuts to mount the sub into the box, for the same reason.
How wide is the port? how long are the two inner boards of the port?
If I build something like that, I'll probably go double-thickness on the front panel.
Is there anything (like resin, perhaps) that I can use to soak the wood around the driver hole, to keep it solid? (I had separation of the MDF around the driver hole in a previous box I'd built)
I might also use T-nuts to mount the sub into the box, for the same reason.
03-24-2009, 04:41 PM
#6
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I worked out the numbers, which I want to run by you guys;
Box: 23" x 15" x 13" (front panel will be 1.5" thick, so it will give the same interior volume as jalat's box)
Port: 11.5" x 1.5" x 24"; which should give a length of 9" to the inner port board.
Does this look right?
S^G
Box: 23" x 15" x 13" (front panel will be 1.5" thick, so it will give the same interior volume as jalat's box)
Port: 11.5" x 1.5" x 24"; which should give a length of 9" to the inner port board.
Does this look right?
S^G
03-24-2009, 10:51 PM
#7
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Posts: 723
Yeah, Mike. That was for me. I had to replace the TypeS with a TypeR, though. lol In the sealed box I made, the output from the amp was too much, and the thing was bottoming out. Dropped the TypeR in, with it's higher power handling, it sounds nice and tight. Just not deep enough.
03-24-2009, 11:31 PM
#8
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Yeah, Mike. That was for me. I had to replace the TypeS with a TypeR, though. lol In the sealed box I made, the output from the amp was too much, and the thing was bottoming out. Dropped the TypeR in, with it's higher power handling, it sounds nice and tight. Just not deep enough.
My last sub was a 10" type-S in a 1-cube sealed, which I was pretty happy with. Unfortunately*, the spider's mounting ring decided to separate from the basket, causing ungodly rattling. I had tried gluing it, but it let go again.
*or fortunately, since now I have a brand new Type-R to play with...
S^G
03-25-2009, 10:33 AM
#9
So, would you go with something a bit bigger, for the sub I have? Keep in mind, I'm not looking for ultra loud ultra-low... if I was, I'd've probably gone for a pair of 12's or 15's, and not a single 10"...
My last sub was a 10" type-S in a 1-cube sealed, which I was pretty happy with. Unfortunately*, the spider's mounting ring decided to separate from the basket, causing ungodly rattling. I had tried gluing it, but it let go again.
*or fortunately, since now I have a brand new Type-R to play with...
S^G
My last sub was a 10" type-S in a 1-cube sealed, which I was pretty happy with. Unfortunately*, the spider's mounting ring decided to separate from the basket, causing ungodly rattling. I had tried gluing it, but it let go again.
*or fortunately, since now I have a brand new Type-R to play with...
S^G
i will PM you the dimensions of that enclosure i attached above.
it should do the trick
03-25-2009, 12:27 PM
#10
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 723
Satellite Guy, I'm definitely going to the TypeR into a ported box at some point. We're just not getting enough output from it sealed. Let Jalat help you out. That box will be very good. Tuned to 34Hz will make it more geared toward sound quality, as opposed to a "peaky" SPL box.
