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Anyone see problems with this?

Old Feb 6, 2011 | 06:10 PM
  #11  
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What if you just move the middle wall to the centre of the port? I'm no box pro but if this is your first attempt at a ported box and you're not trying to do a tline box, why not check to see what happens if you keep the port equal on both sides?
Old Feb 6, 2011 | 06:11 PM
  #12  
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and reduce the length of the inner port board to match the port width.
Old Feb 6, 2011 | 08:16 PM
  #13  
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Name:  SUBBOXDESIGN-1.jpg
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 04:24 AM
  #14  
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Without actually doing the math (I hate using cm...), looks better than the first design.
Old Feb 7, 2011 | 05:18 AM
  #15  
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What's the tuning you're looking for?
Old Feb 7, 2011 | 05:30 AM
  #16  
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So... 69 cm deep... 50 + 18 = 68 cm... 69 deep - 68 (port board plus port width) leaves 1cm.

1 cm = .3937" Thats not 3/4 MDF.

Like Jalat said, let someone design it for ya.

Last edited by DeadlySones; Feb 7, 2011 at 05:33 AM.
Old Feb 7, 2011 | 08:24 PM
  #17  
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Well im open for design plans I could use one for my BTL too
Old Feb 7, 2011 | 09:15 PM
  #18  
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try this http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html
Old Feb 7, 2011 | 09:19 PM
  #19  
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or just use basic math ?gross internal volume L*W*H/1728= cubic feet.... Subtract sub and port displacement = net sub volume. That sub sounds really nice in sealed box but id also put in ported box tuned 25 hz w a port thats 30 -40 sq in of port
IF slot port, can also slide more wood in to shrink port volume but cant make it bigger if needed.
Old Feb 8, 2011 | 10:17 AM
  #20  
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I'm for basic math, I'm oldschool!

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